Well, along with well cradled balls you also need a glob of nut sauce. Well sauced nuts with well cut grooves. Grooves slightly wider than your string gauges. with a nice gentle exit ramp and a clean sharp break point. You want the string to roll over the nut like a rope rolls over a pulley. Plastic nuts suck. Bone is better. Some of the synthetic stuff like Tusq and GraphTech would be the best for trem use. Well stretched out strings too. Stretch the hell out of em & keep retuning over & over. It's a labor of love but the results are worth it. .009's really shouldn't be a problem. Also make sure all the Bigsby pivot points are loose & lubed and moving freely. Especially the string roller bar on B5's & B7's. As Raiyn says, a roller bridge is also part of the ease of use program.. No need to spend big bux, I get cheap ones & drill & tap em' for locking setscrews. Just make sure the rollers all roll. I've gotten a stiff one before. Stu Mac sells this stuff, it's a grit impregnated string. Kinda like dental floss for your nuts. It's handy to deburr, smooth & polish nut slots & even metal saddles. http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Sanding_and_Polishing/Mitchell_Abrasive_Cord.html As far as locking tuners go... I don't use em but to each his own. Not saying they won't help, I've just never needed them. But I never have more than 3 or so wraps of string around the tuner posts. Less string length to loosen up & retension each time you wiggle the bar. Currently have 4 Bigsby sportin' guitars here and they stay in tune as well as anything else I have. You can do it Relic, lube those nuts & cradle your balls, then you can wiggle your wang stick with the best of em'