can someone date this custom and tell me if they think it's either refined or is wearing replacements parts , its huge investment for me so I really an expert opinion. Please see pics
Serial numbers from that era are unreliable for dating purposes. Look inside the control cavity and check the pot codes. If pots are original, they will indicate the earliest year the guitar was built. Pot Code Format 137YYWW 137 = CTS YY = Year WW = Week Example: 1376421 137 = CTS YY = 64 (1964) WW = 21 (21st week of 1964) Truss Rod Cover plate does not appear to be original. It is too large overlapping the the bottom of the split diamond inlay on the headstock.
I checked a bunch of photos of 64 customs and all have this large truss rod cover that overlaps the diamond, must be a thing
It could be. I found this one... https://reverb.com/item/17769274-vi...electric-guitar-w-ohsc-all-original-one-owner The one in above link is close, but not overlapping the inlay. I can't help but to notice things that look out of place such as on a late 60's SG, the selector switch and washer is placed right up on the edge of the guard which makes it look like an afterthought IMO compared to all the other years where it was not so close to the guard. It doesn't bother me where it's located, just an observation. So what did the pot codes end up dating to?
'63 or '64. Can't say any more specifically without pot codes. Looks mostly original. TRC looks newer though. It's three-ply. The bottom layer is always really thin with Gibson. 5-ply always looks like 4, especially on a guitar like this where the bottom layer matches and blends into the body color.
Ah Thank you. I have taken the plunge Potcodes unseen and put down a deposit. (my fourth SG). Once i take delivery I will open her up for a look see and will let you know, appreciate the help.
The bad news: PAF pickup that is shown looks like fake. Decal looks not authentic and I miss the L markings where the two screws are attached. I could be wrong, but if they are fakes, it would devaluate the guitar with at least 3000$ if the rest is original. I also miss the gold plated knob pointers. Honestly, the headstock looks fake too as the paint is covering the diamond shape and the GIBSON mark. The tenor cover is missing the two screws........ I would stay away from it.
One other thing, the tuners are dull and corroded. Normaly they should be smooth and the gold layer should be disappearing because of the use. A lot of the relic guys forget these things.
The stamping on the serial number looks odd. Never seen that before where some digits appear larger than the others. Look at the 7,5, and 1.
Whatever these guys offer, plus 100 bucks!! I am no.1 hater of this fake guitars! I can't know the year but maaaan!! This is a great guitar!! Nice catch!
Also the 8. The 5 in the middle seems that it was a 6 or an 8, if you look at its left side and its bottom, it looks as if a 5 has been printed on a curved-shaped number.
i pulled out of this sale in the end, qnd have store credit. Thanks to advice given here. there was no "L shape" machine marks on PAf's, the stickers didn't glow under UV and the pots had been replaced. Too much didn't match, thanks guys! I will keep searching for the dream custom
I have a couple of guitars that have similar pitting. Usually comes from playing a sweaty gig, not wiping it down, then forgetting to do so for another week or two. The repeat several times over many years. Besides, the gold wears away quite quickly when used regularly, and you're left with the base material. I've never seen any type of plating for guitar parts meet the same quality as higher end motorcycle parts. My '59 Harley puts up with far more abuse than my guitars, and the plating looks much better. If you have acidic sweat, it will be pitted in no time.
