First SG Project

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Girl_Rock, Aug 17, 2019.

  1. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Principally to make it lighter and, believe me, if you knock the right side, which is still without chambers, and the left side, you can hear a difference of sound. I love the left one, it's gorgeous. Both my SGs (Epi and Gib) don't sound like that if I knock on them, and if I build a guitar I want to make it different from the others. So I answer your question about the neck: I'd like to make the Fender one, the typical "modern C" shape (the thinnest), I think it's not an usual neck for SGs, exept maybe for Angus Young's, ahah.
    And the headstock... Boh, I'm thinking about Epiphone ones, that are easyer to cut, but not for our CNC machine. :facepalm: My dad wants to re-build it bigger, so I'm waiting for his decision.

    Sure, I know it will be really difficult to join the sides, but I'll try. The plank was 1.8 mm thick, for this reason I cut twice the body. The guitar will be 3.6 mm of thickness, usually SGs are 3.5 mm, aren't they? Well, it's so minimal...

    I've not tested it yet. I will tell you. Me too, I'm curious to know how much wood is gone and how much will be left at the end of the work.
     
  2. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Thank you, me too. The body is the easyest part, I hope it won't be another odissey for the neck, but it will probably be it. If I manage to convince my dad to re-build and upgrade the whole CNC machine, I'll think about the guitar because I need space to cut neck and headstock, at least 10 cm of height, depending on headstock angle.

    School starts on Sept 12th, I hope I'll have some free time to go on with this work. Maybe it can be a great help, I mean, it can give us the time for the upgrade while I'm studying.
     
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  3. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    The rightside (without chambers) is 818 gramms, the leftside (with chambers) is 630 gramms. Currently the guitar weights 1.45 kg, but it's not finished.
     
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  4. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    The odissey continues... :rofl:

    modified13.jpg

    The control cavity had some problems with the milling, not with CAD again, but changing the drill bit, some of them had been resolved. First, we mill the border for the cover, about 4 mm of thickness. In this step we had to change the single drill bit with a triple bit one, because it started to follow the wood grain. It could be because of the wear, speed, direction or other reasons, so we decided to remove it. Then we cut the control area, untill it detached from the body (all of this was for the upper "plank", as you can see above) and the last step was the milling of the remaining control area, I think 12 mm (of the other "plank").

    Another troble was the cover: the CNC machine cut 2 mm, not 4 mm (in part it was our error and in part we trusted the software was doing its work correctly... it wasn't). So the cover is good, but it's too pliable, in the other hand it doesn't flex when it's on the control cavity area and fits perfectly. We'll cut another one with the right dimensions.

    modified14.jpg

    To be an homemade machine I think it works pretty well, I'm sure factories have the same problems the first time they use theirs, they need to set them and check it's everything ok, but in larger scale, which is not better nor easyer.
     
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  5. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    modified15.jpg

    Pickguard and a new control cavity cover.
    We bought a poplar plank, thick 4 mm, so we didn't need to mill the maple one to reach the right thickness.

    Now I can draw the wires cavity. For the bridge and stop tailpiece ground I thought to drill two small ducts which will join in the main, the wires one, do you understand what I mean? I have no pictures about this, but maybe I'll post them before cutting the zone. I think also guitar factories mill something similar, or is there anything else I don't know? In the video I linked some weeks ago, Gibson does it in the same way.
     
  6. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    Shouldn't you wait for the tailpiece stud holes to be drilled before doing any ground wire channel ?
     
  7. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Yes, I should, you're right. But it's something you can do "on the fly", once you've taken the measurements. I didn't write that step. :thumb: I must know exactly where to drill them, then drill the holes and next step are the wire channels.
     
  8. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    Once the neck is glued.
     
  9. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Is that fondamental? Or I can leave some space to glue it later (first I cut the space for it and then add the neck)?

    Thank you for the advice.
     
  10. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    Because you have to measure the scale very precisely, from nut to bridge. You don't want to wing it and have to plug those holes and redrill. Positionning the bridge is usually the last thing you do, before wiring everything.
     
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  11. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Ah well, yes, you're right, thank you. I'll take care of it, thanks for the info. :bowdown:
     

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