Hey folks! I've brought up this topic in recent weeks already, but I think it will be easier to keep all information - outgoing and incoming - in one thread. Last summer, after a long hunt I bought myself my semi-dream guitar, a '61-63 style small guard Greco SG standard in (presumably) polaris white/olympic white. I thought it was a Made In Japan instrument, but as it turned out it was built by Cort in Korea around the late '80s, early '90s. The guitar is by no means bad, it's built solidly, it plays really good, and it is close to being just right for me, but not quite... All the pics in the first post are from the time the guitar arrived, in its original state I had some issues with it from the start, mostly cosmetic. The poly finish was applied too thickly for my liking, softening the fine contours and bevels noticeably, and likely dampening the resonance of the body to some degree, although I was not unhappy about its res. properties, and it has very healthy sustain too. The weight was above my expectations (I've been beaten to other white MIJ SG auctions before, so I jumped on the opportunity too quickly, and forgot to ask about this, wrongly assuming all SGs are featherweights) at 7.6 lbs. Not terrible, and I've gotten used to it in the meantime. The guitar is built of some kind of mahogany, either African, or sapele or perhaps some other mahogany type/related/looking wood that was available for mass production 25-28 years ago, as evidenced by a small chip-off in the control cavity. The biggest annoyance after getting used to the weight still remained though. The beveling and the shape of the horns was not quite right for an early '60s SG copy. Close but not deep enough, not pointy and clean enough (the finish may add to this observation, but we'll only know once it's off the guitar). Also the horns are more like modern day SGs, with the cold-chisel tips, not the shallower pointier '61-65 type. I like both, but only when done crisply. This photograph is not from a perfectly vertical angle, so we can see the inside of the upper horn, but regardless, it is a bit stubby and thickly covered as is. So after contemplating selling the guitar and buying something more to my liking for a serious markup, I go a quote that was good enough, and decided to just have it turned into a real keeper. Work is underway as I'm writing this post. We've agreed to have the following done, using photos and comparison drawings: -repair a hairline crack in the control cavity wall, so it doesn't ruin the new finish, or get worse. -reshape the horn bevels and point thickness to resemble a '61 SG. This will include deepening the cutaway bevels and reshaping their curves on both horns to match the originals as much as possible, and removing some thickness through re-beveling the outsides. -strengthen the body contours and the "shoulder" slope at the neck joint by sanding/shaving (the horn reshaping will take care of a lot of this) and shave the neck-heel and body joint ever so slightly to get the slope really crisply defined. -reshape the open-book detail of the headstock to match a median-Gibson outline. This means slightly softening the two humps at the "spine" of the book, slightly lowering them, but we won't change the faceplate, it remains a Greco. -do a refinish that is as thin as technical circumstances allow a solid white finish to be, done in polaris white/olympic white, but no artificial top coat yellowing. He'll likely be using an acrylic automotive paint. I'd like to go nitro, but no decision has been made, and while I love the look of weather-checked nitro, pristine, well applied, thin finishes of both nitro and poly are practically identical, also modern nitro lacquer contains a lot of plasticizers/elasticizers to prevent rapid deterioration, so I'm not sure it would age as I'd like it to anyway. I hope to take pics of most phases of the work. Right now the control cavity crack is being repaired, and the finish stripping comes next.