My Burny SG copy, 2010 update

Discussion in 'Tone Zone' started by SG John, Jan 10, 2010.

  1. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    A year and a half ago, I got a Burny '62 SG Standard copy. Here's the old link, as I don't have recent pictures:
    http://everythingsg.com/forum/index.php?topic=17559.0

    When I got it, the neck pickup was dead, and I replaced it with a '57 Classic humbucker. A few weeks ago, I returned my '69 Junior to a real P-90 and decided to try the P-94 in the Burny's neck position, and move the '57 to the bridge. As luck would have it, I can't do that because both pickups are for the neck position. Right now, I'm getting ready to bid on two different humbuckers and a Duncan Phat Cat for the bridge position.

    I like they way the guitar plays, but the Burny pickup and stock electronics are anemic at best, and going to be replaced. I think Allparts stuff would sound better. After I get the pickups sorted out, I'll be looking at an RS Soundworks kit. I've also added a beat up old Bigsby B-5 to my watch list, since the Gibson tremolos won't work on this guitar due to the lack of a decent neck angle. It's probably two degrees at the most, and Gibsons are at about four degrees (it does make a difference).

    The Plan:
    1. Get pickups sorted. That's the easy part.
    2. Go with a Bigsby. Not so easy, and cost prohibitive unless I find the right one.
    3. This is the hard part. Since I have always loved the look of a small pick guard Standard with a Pelham Blue finish, I'm going to strip the guitar, reshape the horns and such to look like a Gibson, and perhaps refinish (or send it to Lou at that point). Or, I'll just play it with a bare finish until I have a job again, and can afford to refinish it.

    So, my question is.... What's the best stuff for stripping the finish? I know that I can get pore filler from both Re-Ranch and Stew-Mac, but where can I get aged Pelham Blue (almost green) nitro in a spray bomb?

    Any other tips would be helpful. I have been reading, and intensely following everyones rebuilds here for about five years, so I'm no stranger to the process.
     
  2. Tenafly Viper

    Tenafly Viper Member

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    John, if you want grain filler I have a ton. Reranch sells tinted clear nitro which will shift the hue on Pelham towards green. I'm not wicked happy with my Burgundy mist metallic. It isn't anywhere near light enough. It is basically solid heritage cherry with some metallic. I thought it would be like the examples i have seen on the web, I was wrong.

    I am now think of stripping it down or at least sanding it, using a white primer and then doing Sherwood green metallic.

    Also I'm not a wicked fan of the Phat Cat p94. How are you going to reshape the horns?
     
  3. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    Jeff, I'll probably take you up on the grain filler offer. I was chatting with Lou (Bruce Wayne) today, and I'm in for a handful of work. The finish is currently a polyesther gloss coat and primer. I'll have to carefully use a heat gun and putty knife to strip it. While it's stripped I may try a couple of the Gibson Trem units I have on it. I'll also reshape the horns then. I'll put my '62 next to it, and draw where I'll have to take it down. I'll do it the old fashioned way with files, rasps, and sand paper.

    As for pickups, I'd prefer to win either the 57 Classic Plus, or the Pearly Gates Bridge pickups I'm watching in the Flea, and skip the Phat Cat. I do like the P-94 that I have, but bridge position P-94's seem to show up used less often.

    For the finish, Lou hooked me up with Tower Paint in Winsconsin. They'll mix any color paint in a 16 oz. spray bomb. Gibson Pelham Blue is the same as 1960 Cadillac Pelham Blue. It comes in Acrylic Laquer. I can shoot clear nitro over it, but just need to let it set up a few days first. After the blue, I'll have to shoot a couple coats of tinted clear, wetsand, then spray it with final coats of clear to get the look I'm hoping for.

    I hope it will look like this when I'm done:
    [​IMG]


    Sorry to hear that the Burgundy Mist didn't work out. Did it come out darker than my Strat? Maybe you should contact Tower. Burgundy Mist is an Oldsmobile color from '57. They should be able to mix the correct color.
     
  4. Tenafly Viper

    Tenafly Viper Member

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    Hell that'll be gorgeous. Anytime you need the grain filler just hit me up. I don't envy the stripping job you have in front of you. Painting has been fun so far. Chris Brat is redoing his JJ Melody Maker at the same time with me. He has some pictures up on facebook. I'm going to post some more of my guitar and the progress today. I am hoping when I get to work that the the paint lightened up a bit. Right now it is way too brown.

    If it ends up where I don't like it I'll take it down or shoot over it. In that case if I can choose any color I want I'll definitely use Tower. Frankly I wish I knew that in the first place.

    Post some pictures of your strat. Every example of finished jobs with BMM I have seen looked great, except mine. I am inclined to put the spectrophotometer on it and tell them how off the color really is.
     
  5. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    Here's a shot of what it may have looked like with a P-94 and a '57 Classic.

    [​IMG]


    I did win the auction for a '57 Classic Plus (treble position), so I'll have two '57 Classics in it in about a week. I'm still unhappy with the Japanese pots, and want to upgrade the electronics. Now that RS Guitarworks charges a hundred bucks for an upgrade kit, I'm wondering if this guitar is worth it. There don't seem to be many options. There's RS, Dr. Vintage, Gibson, and Allparts. Harumph!!!!! Either brutally expensive and/or crap, what a choice. I'm still keeping an eye out for a cheap complete Bigsby B5. Everyone on Fleabay seems to think all their used old junk is worth dealer list price. Once I have all the parts sorted out, and I'm happy with the playability of this guitar, I'll start stripping it for a refin.
     
  6. barbas23

    barbas23 Active Member

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    that's a great pickup combo
     
  7. Tenafly Viper

    Tenafly Viper Member

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    I would just order some braided wire from mojotone or stewmac and some cts pots or just decent pots from allparts get whatever fancy caps you want from whoever and wire it up yourself. I bet the switch is fine. I bet the jack is fine as well.
     
  8. suicidehummer

    suicidehummer Active Member

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    [quote author=SG John link=topic=20232.msg244518#msg244518 date=1263183316]
    Jeff, I'll probably take you up on the grain filler offer. I was chatting with Lou (Bruce Wayne) today, and I'm in for a handful of work. The finish is currently a polyesther gloss coat and primer. I'll have to carefully use a heat gun and putty knife to strip it. While it's stripped I may try a couple of the Gibson Trem units I have on it. I'll also reshape the horns then. I'll put my '62 next to it, and draw where I'll have to take it down. I'll do it the old fashioned way with files, rasps, and sand paper.[/quote]

    Here's a trick for removing a Poly finish...

    http://epi.p3net.net/bbs/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1165&p=13794&hilit=poly+finish#p13794

    I haven't tried it myself though.
     
  9. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    Got a new '57 Classic Plus humbucker off of ebay. It ended up being nfg, so I'm waiting on the refund to get another. I'll be going to Manitoba next week, so things are being put off a bit. Hopefully I'll have pickups and electronics sorted out in February so I can start stripping the guitar and reshaping the body. There are a few used B-5 tailpieces that are in my price range on fleabay. Wish me luck.
     
  10. Tenafly Viper

    Tenafly Viper Member

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    If you want prewired electronics you should check out Hoagland Bros. They are very reasonable and have pretty much everything.
     
  11. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    I managed to find a new Bigsby B-5 on Ebay. The seller had a low buy it now expecting low ballers to start the auction, and get the bidding up to what they've been selling for. Wrong! This low baller bought it now. I'm waiting on a set of CTS pots and bumble bee caps out of an R9 that I bought at the Gear Page to arrive this week. I'm still looking for a '57 Classic Plus humbucker for the right price and I need to get a switchcraft toggle switch to get all the electrics sorted out. After that, I'll play it a bit, then start stripping it, reshaping the horns, plugging holes, and refinishing it. Here's how it looks now.


    [​IMG]
     
  12. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    I've been playing the guitar with one '57 Classic in the neck position. I'm happy with the CTS pots and bumblebee caps thus far. I've decided what I'll put in it for pickups, but will wait until after ther refin.

    I decided to go ahead and order paint. Since Tower paints has burned down, I've spent all day on the web and found Ohio Valley Nitro. I was able to get two cans of 1960 Cadilac Pelham Blue nitrocellulose lacquer.

    http://www.ohiovalleynitro.com/index.html

    Next week I'll take the guitar apart and start stripping the finish. I'll have to get sealer, primer and clearcoats next. I'll wait until after the blue paint arrives to have a good look at the can, and then call the folks at Ohio Valley before placing the next order.

    Has anyone had any experience with products from them?
     
  13. sg64gibson

    sg64gibson Member

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    Are you going to change the Headstock Inlay to gibson or leave it burny? BTW I love the look of the phelham blue standards.... Good luck with the project.
     
  14. Tenafly Viper

    Tenafly Viper Member

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    [quote author=SG John link=topic=20232.msg247684#msg247684 date=1269634896]
    I've been playing the guitar with one '57 Classic in the neck position. I'm happy with the CTS pots and bumblebee caps thus far. I've decided what I'll put in it for pickups, but will wait until after ther refin.

    I decided to go ahead and order paint. Since Tower paints has burned down, I've spent all day on the web and found Ohio Valley Nitro. I was able to get two cans of 1960 Cadilac Pelham Blue nitrocellulose lacquer.

    http://www.ohiovalleynitro.com/index.html

    Next week I'll take the guitar apart and start stripping the finish. I'll have to get sealer, primer and clearcoats next. I'll wait until after the blue paint arrives to have a good look at the can, and then call the folks at Ohio Valley before placing the next order.

    Has anyone had any experience with products from them?
    [/quote]

    One of the guys over at reranch's forum got some from them. I think myself or Chris from the Brats has some tinted clear from there, if you are looking to get that aged look. Gimme a shout if you want it and I can get it to ya.
     
  15. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    So, I've finally stripped her. I needed a heat gun and a putting knive to scrape off the poly. What a pain in the butt! I managed to burn a bit of the binding at the base of the neck, so I'll have to replace a bit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I also plugged the tailpiece holes with mahogany.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  16. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    Then I worked on the body some with a spokeshave, rasp, sanding blocks, and sand paper to make the bevels look more like an old SG. I've also softened some of the radii around the body. It feels great. If the weather cooperates, and we have a nice New England spring day on Sunday, I'll start the first coats of pore sealer.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  17. SG Lou

    SG Lou Moderator Staff Member

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    Nice job John, Looks GREAT !
     
  18. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    Fianlly got the first coat of pore sealer on today. I also worked on the horns a bit more this morning. Went at them with some fine sandpaper until I was happy with their shape.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Tenafly Viper

    Tenafly Viper Member

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    What did you use for pore sealer John?
     
  20. SG John

    SG John Well-Known Member

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    Ace brand oil based sanding sealer. A quart was pretty cheap at Moynahan Lumber in Beverly. It's the brush on stuff. After twenty four hours there was still a bit of tackiness. The first coat should be ready for a quick sanding this afternoon. I'll try two coats at first, if it needs a third I'll do it. Then I'll use a coat of the spray-on nitro sanding sealer I got from Ohio Valley Nitro. The plan is to have it in primer before I go to Amsterdam. That will give the primer five days to cure. Even if I go two days between sealer coats, time shouldn't be an issue. Just the weather.
     

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