SG new build

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Silvertone, Oct 13, 2018.

  1. PermissionToLand

    PermissionToLand Well-Known Member

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    Is the veneer going to be synthetic or wood?

    The bodies look fantastic. I am liking the black walnut very much.
     
  2. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    Thanks. Definitely wood. I'll slice a thin piece of walnut for the head stock veneer and probably do the crown inlay and custom name with maple. I have a lot of black walnut, and maple, as I have cut down several trees over the last few years.

    Regards Peter.
     
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  3. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    I glued in the inlays and clamped with my 12" aluminum radius beam -
    IMG_6100.JPG

    Unclamped and they look pretty good. I could probably recess the inlays just sightly deeper but this should clean up nicely.
    IMG_6101.JPG

    Trying for an end shot to see how much of the inlays are proud of the fret board surface.
    IMG_6102.JPG

    Looks pretty close. Shouldn't take too many passes with the sanding beam to get down to wood. Then I can add binding as I will be adding frets after and cutting the tang so they hang over the binding.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  4. HackeIommi

    HackeIommi Active Member

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    Wow! Another handyman adventure in here! Looking impressive Peter!
     
  5. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    Thanks - I wish this moved a little faster but I have a full time job and family and this "hobby" is a distant third. ;-)

    Cheers Peter.
     
  6. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    Put the binding on the fret board. I used a clamping caul in my bench vice and some wax paper. I use Tom's binding and melt it in acetone for the adhesive.

    [​IMG]


    I'll do one side at a time because I want to make sure it is positioned correctly. I put some little spacers on the bottom of the board so the binding will sit lower. It is important that it is flush with the bottom of the board so there is no gap when I glue it on the neck.


    Cheers Peter
     
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  7. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    So, binding is poured/molded to the neck ? It's liquid binding ?
     
  8. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    No I just melt the binding in acetone and use it for glue. Most people call this goop. I cut a strip the right length and then melt some off cuts. It dries exactly the same colour as the native binding so it is a great way of doing it. It fills the voids and dries rock hard just like the binding material. I could use CA glue or Duco cement but I like using the goop.

    Cheers Peter.
     
  9. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    Ah ... we learn some every day. Like we say here (in French), I'll go to bed a little less dumb tonight.
     
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  10. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    Got the rest of the binding on and all gooped up.
    [​IMG]

    I've done this a few times now and I have a pretty good system in place. I have an aluminum radius beam, a fret board sanding jig, sand paper strips that fit exactly the beam from 40 - 60 - 80 - 120 - 150 - 180 -220 - 320 - 400 grit , and I use my jointer push stick stuck to the radius beam.
    [​IMG]

    I switch the strokes from one end to the other every 10 - 15 and mark the board with a yellow pencil to make sure I am evenly sanding.
    [​IMG]
    I worked through all the grits and then hand sanded 600 and 800 grit. I still have to thickness the binding at the end of the fret board but I think it turned out pretty good.
    [​IMG]


    Cheers Peter.
     
  11. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    I cut up another plank of that maple as my wife was on me to get it off the deck. Anyone interested in a maple SG body? ;-)
    IMG_6142.JPG

    IMG_6144.JPG

    Cheers Peter.
     
  12. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    On to some fret work. Break out the fret tools including my fret tang nippers.

    [​IMG]


    Cheers Peter.
     
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  13. Layne Matz

    Layne Matz Well-Known Member

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    Still loving this thread! Very insightful

    Are you considering selling bodies?
     
  14. Layne Matz

    Layne Matz Well-Known Member

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    Also, out of curiosity- how durable is that binding against weathering, aging, wwmear and tear, etc.? I have no experience with binding outside of music stores, oh and on my Ibanez acoustic but it feels like a harder type of binding than was on vintage Gibson's.
     
  15. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    Yes - I am actually trying to get rid of this wood. It was kiln dried and sitting on my covered deck and my wife has shown her disapproval. That's why I cut these into body blanks and necks.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  16. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    This is the same binding material Gibson used way back when. It is quite hard and durable. The nice thing about it is I just melt it in acetone and use that for glue. It dries the same colour and fills any gaps.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  17. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    I've been working on CNCing some necks and I have some time inbetween waiting on the machining. I decided I'd get some more work done on this project. I have a neck already made up and it is the mahogany with maple skunk stripe. I think I will use this one for the walnut body, or possibly the maple. Either way I cleaned up the ears on the head stock and used my head stock template to trim to shape.

    [​IMG]


    worked out well. I'll just do some finish sanding and it should be fine. It's all good if I do not have an explosive tear-out issue. ;-)

    [​IMG]


    I bought a crown inlay a number of years ago and I may, or may not, use it on this project. I have the two SG bodies made up. One is walnut and the other maple. I think I will make a head stock veneer for each of the same wood as the body. Here I cut a thin slice out of a nice piece of black walnut and laid out the inlay. I will see if I can do the same with a nice chunk of maple. That way I can use either for this neck and decide which body to mate it. I guess I should plan on making a neck for the walnut bodied guitar. Maybe a maple neck with walnut skunk stripe??


    [​IMG]


    Cheers Peter.
     
  18. HackeIommi

    HackeIommi Active Member

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    I think a pretty maple top may seem very good. I love SGs with a good maple top or maple veneer. With a proper finish job, appearance can be magical and tempting.
     
  19. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    I have a solid spalted / curly maple body already cut. I just have to decide on the neck to use for that one and the walnut body. Here is the maple top I have -
    body_11.jpg

    I might do a walnut neck for this guitar and the mahogany and maple skunk stripe for the walnut body. I haven't really decided yet.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  20. Silvertone

    Silvertone Active Member

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    So I think I'm going with the mahogany maple laminated neck for the maple body guitar. So I will make a maple veneer for the head stock and use walnut inlays. I drew up a couple options and leaning towards this one. I used to do a lot of consulting work and had a company call FFWD, fast forward, design and also have another business called FFWD Woodworking. I figured this would make a decent head stock logo. For all you youngsters out there the two triangles/ arrows / chevrons facing right was the icon for the fast forward button on the old cassette tape decks, VCRs, and DVD players.

    Capture.JPG


    Found a nice chunk of curly maple -

    IMG_6284.JPG


    I'll just use the walnut I sliced for the other head stock veneer and cut out the inlays. CAD for those -

    inlays.JPG



    Cheers Peter.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2019

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