2004 MIK needing finish repair

Bobo

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Just picked up a 2004 MIK SG. It has received damage at the plug and somebody did a real crap repair and I wish to correct it. It almost looks like I can sand it down to the finish and reapply clear coat. However, I don't know how it was originally finished. Lacquer, Poly, single, duel, etc. Any help would be appreciated.

271703086_4725031510909990_5404558913102102706_n.png IMG_20220122_125037.jpg IMG_20220122_125057.jpg
 

Colnago

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Sand that down a little lower than the surrounding area without going into the color. I would use CA glue as a clear finish for this as it dries fast and polishes super easy. Maybe two or three coats or fills and it should be good. Scrape it level with a razor blade, wet sand up to 3000 grit and then polish with your choice of compound.
Don’t sand through the color.
 

DrBGood

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Maybe that patch is what is supporting the jack. Look inside if any repair is showing.

I doubt that you will be able to do something that won't show. If it was mine, I'd tape the surrounding area as to not damage it. Then try to get that blob out of there. Once there, who knows what you'll see. This is really a case of improvising as the work advances.

If there's nothing reinforcing the area from the cavity, you will have to see to that first. I would epoxy a thin piece of metal (aluminum ?) for the jack to be screwed through, maybe a washer, depending on how big the damage is.

Start by trying to remove as much of the surface blob as you can and let's see what you find.
 

Von Trapp

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First of all, ain't no way that can be fixed without showing. Sorry, but there it is. Most likely that there is a repaired crack since the Koreans seem to have a special talent for making that area super weak so a crack there is almost to be expected. Looks like the previous lutherie enthusiast has used nail polish. In itself not a bad idea but perhaps colored wasn't and the job itself leaves a lot to be desired. Body is poly finish.

So, first off, sand it down with some fine grain paper. Use a small square of wood to hold the paper so as to get an even surface. Let's see what happens before we decide what to do next. Personally, I feel the area is too big to use Ca glue. But yeah, sand it down and we'll see. There's a chance you can sand it down to the original stain and in that case poly or nail polish (clear) can be your friend.

(needless to say, you need to remove the output jack first. and don't wet sand because it's by a hole and the water will go into the wood and damage the guitar even further)
 
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papagayo

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You can glue a veneer or make a custom paint
 

Bobo

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Thanks for the input. I know it will not be perfect but want to just improve what is there now, so it looks good from across a small room, right now it's pretty bad. Going to start with opening the cavity and making sure it is properly fixed on the inside, then sanding I go. I've used CA on a few necks with cracks and using a taped razor blade, but this will need a full blade to scrape. The repair should only be about a sq inch, so CA should be fine, I wasn't sure about the finish, now I can fix it up. Worst case I have nail polish and I also have high quality automotive rattle can clear coat Thanks Again.
 

beerbelly

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If a taped razor blade isn't quite wide enough, you might try a utility knife blade; they're wider.

carbon-standard-utility-blades-929.jpg
 

Von Trapp

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and you need to notch it to make it a sickel, but I guess you know that.
 

DrBGood

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Thanks for the input. I know it will not be perfect but want to just improve what is there now, so it looks good from across a small room, right now it's pretty bad. Going to start with opening the cavity and making sure it is properly fixed on the inside, then sanding I go. I've used CA on a few necks with cracks and using a taped razor blade, but this will need a full blade to scrape. The repair should only be about a sq inch, so CA should be fine, I wasn't sure about the finish, now I can fix it up. Worst case I have nail polish and I also have high quality automotive rattle can clear coat Thanks Again.
Good. It looks like the bump of whatever was put on is pretty thick. Instead of trying to sand that down without touching the surrounding finish, I would go at it with a very sharp small chisel, slowly take layers off.

Once you're ready to refinish, if some of the color was taken away, this is my go to Cherry Red fixer.

Red Sharpie.jpg
Here's a headstock repair where I used the Sharpie and super glue. I added color between glue layers until I got the desired color saturation.

Headstock repair copy.jpg
As for a finish that will match the poly, I wouldn't use a rattle can, they never worked on small surfaces for me. Super glue is the ticket here, dries hard so easy to polish. Nail polish is great for little nicks and scratches. When I used some, it never really totally cure so it could be sanded.
 

Bobo

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Good. It looks like the bump of whatever was put on is pretty thick. Instead of trying to sand that down without touching the surrounding finish, I would go at it with a very sharp small chisel, slowly take layers off.

Once you're ready to refinish, if some of the color was taken away, this is my go to Cherry Red fixer.

Here's a headstock repair where I used the Sharpie and super glue. I added color between glue layers until I got the desired color saturation.
As for a finish that will match the poly, I wouldn't use a rattle can, they never worked on small surfaces for me. Super glue is the ticket here, dries hard so easy to polish. Nail polish is great for little nicks and scratches. When I used some, it never really totally cure so it could be sanded.

Wow, that came out very good. That would be great if mine comes out that well. Off to buy a red sharpie.
 


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