2014 SG Standard 120

Discussion in 'Gibson SG' started by sg61reissuefc, May 30, 2015.

  1. sg61reissuefc

    sg61reissuefc New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2014
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    2
    Does anyone own this guitar. Have you noticed that the stop tail piece has to be set high to clear the back of the tuneomatic, I love the guitar, but I wish the tailpiece was lower. Would top wrapping be a good way to go. I bought this from Wildwood, and they took great care in getting this guitar to me. They said that they didn't do top wraps on new guitars because of the way it mars the chrome. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
     
  2. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,168
    Likes Received:
    1,746
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Top wrapping is the standard answer for wanting to get the strings higher and the tail piece lower.
     
  3. sg61reissuefc

    sg61reissuefc New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2014
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    2
    So it means there is no problem with the way the neck was set, and I will be good to go with top wrapping. I just can't stand that tailpiece that high. It looks odd. Thanks Scott.
     
  4. sg61reissuefc

    sg61reissuefc New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2014
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    2
    Also is it okay that the tuneomatic can wiggle back and forth a little if I move it with my fingers. I don't want to have any intonation problems
     
  5. Dave_Death

    Dave_Death Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2014
    Messages:
    2,126
    Likes Received:
    1,357
    Location:
    Adelaide, Australia
    This is not good.

    My neck is perhaps set on more of an angle than some, and I've seen other 2011 Standards the same way. I fitted a Tonepros locking tailpiece and bridge, topwrapping the strings (Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky, 9-46). I didn't notice any bridge wobble but I was pleased to lower my tailpiece to what seems like a more stable position.

    I haven't had any issues since.

    My bridge doesn't seem to sit that high though, although maybe others could be better judges.

    [​IMG]

    I really need to take another photo without all of that dust!
     
  6. Crazy_8

    Crazy_8 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2014
    Messages:
    789
    Likes Received:
    581
    Location:
    Chicago
    Yep, the bridge should be rock solid. The break angle from the bridge to the tailpiece should be roughly equivalent to the break angle from the nut to the tuners, but not touch or rest on any piece of the bridge other than the actual saddles.
     
    Bettyboo and ScottMarlowe like this.
  7. sg61reissuefc

    sg61reissuefc New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2014
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    2
    So how do I fix the movement of the bridge and what is causing that
     
  8. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2015
    Messages:
    2,168
    Likes Received:
    1,746
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Are the studs moving, or just the bridge on top of them?
     
  9. sg61reissuefc

    sg61reissuefc New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2014
    Messages:
    19
    Likes Received:
    2
    With the strings on and tuned to pitch, I can take my pointer finger and thumb and move it slightly, which will make the high e string go sharp. But I can move it back. It is not extremely loose. I just feel like it should be a little more rigid
     
  10. thatbastarddon

    thatbastarddon Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2012
    Messages:
    939
    Likes Received:
    666
    What is moving? The hunk of metal that is the bridge?...or the studs that screw in to the body?...
     
  11. Bettyboo

    Bettyboo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2015
    Messages:
    4,186
    Likes Received:
    2,605
    Location:
    London
    Pictures would help too; can you upload some?

    Mine's an Epi with Gotoh Bridge and Schaller tailpiece, but the angle is similar to Dave's; I don't consider either the bridge or tailpiece high. Plus, as Crazy_8 stated the angle from the nut to the tuner pegs is very similar. If you like to top wrap then that's your choice, but you shouldn't be forced to due to setup, and your tail and bridge must be rock solid.

    20150420_191926_resized.jpg
     
  12. Dave_Death

    Dave_Death Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2014
    Messages:
    2,126
    Likes Received:
    1,357
    Location:
    Adelaide, Australia
    The #1 most important thing is that your strings to do not touch the back of the bridge, especially if something is a bit wobbly. That will just amplify the pressure on the studs. But you really need to work out what is wobbling and if it is the studs whether it is the studs or the bushings (or both) that are the issue.

    If it is still covered by the Gibson warranty I would take it to an authorized warranty repairer and get it checked out.

    By the way the Tonepros tailpiece and bridge kits include all the hardware, including bushings and studs
     
  13. El Marin

    El Marin Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2013
    Messages:
    298
    Likes Received:
    219
    Location:
    Madrid, Spain, EU, Earth, Solar system, Milky way
    I would try wit an extra thumbwheel... I use that with the Bigsby. It realy stiffs the thing

    [​IMG]
     
    Paul G. and Crazy_8 like this.
  14. JohnnyGoo

    JohnnyGoo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2014
    Messages:
    7,930
    Likes Received:
    3,939
    Location:
    NW Oregon
    one of the benifits of the larger post metric bridges.there alot sturdier than there American counter part. especially if you go tonepros or the like.
     
  15. JCarno

    JCarno Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2013
    Messages:
    247
    Likes Received:
    144
    Location:
    Finger Lakes
    When I received mine, the action was so high, it was unplayable for me. I like low action. The TP was probably 3/8ths or more off the body and the bridge about 1/4.
    After trying to lower the action without buzzing, I discovered that the notches in the first 3 saddles were cut too low.
    My understanding is that the grooves should just be deep enough to hold the string in place. These strings were clearly buried in the saddles.
    I bought an abr type bridge(can't think of the brand but it's the popular one) that fit on the nashville studs and that solved all my problems.
    TP is now tight to the body, action is low and no buzzing. I also got rid of the G-Force but that's a different story.
    Just threw in an early DiMarzio SD yesterday, plugged straight into my 4104 and played for a couple hours without even considering playing any other gear. Love the guitar. It's my #2 next to my unmodded SG O2. Good luck!
     

Share This Page