Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Man-SG, Jan 5, 2021.
SG '61 Ri , 2013 , 2014 and 2015 Standard design is correct.
Squawk, squawk.....Who believes a preening parrot?
How’s my friend the parakeet?
A'62 RI with full face pickguard works, have a look :
Except the body shape isn't correct on those. Becomes even more obvious with the batwing. Also the bevels aren't quite the same as a real '66.
How is the body shape not correct on this 62 RI and how can you tell from this picture?
Well, it's been known for some time but I also made the effort to confirm it myself:
It becomes more obvious once your eye is trained to see it. It's mostly noticeable from the generally smaller body with a tighter waist, although with the original pickguard, it's obvious that the tip is too short.
Here's another I just threw together now:
I did when I refinished my Burny.
I'm milling an SG custom body for a build. Can anyone post a picture of the neck joint (rear view).. I know I can make the neck I have fit...however, I'd like to make sure it fits snug and looks good. most of the pictures I've been able to view have been more from a distance.
Thanks in advance!
Are you looking for a specific year? Try Google - images?
This guy has nice deep bevels.
Take your pick:
Very impressed with Epiphone lately. At least Gibson also finally decided to democratize the '61 Reissue beveling to it's lower models. Would have been pretty embarrassing for Epiphones to have deeper bevels than the SG Standard and Special. They even gave Epiphone the right control placement, too. Never thought I'd see the day.
Hummm Awesome knobs
Thanks Peter.... Just was I was looking for.. It looks like there is a lot of variation in the neck joint. I'll extend the body neck pocket a bit to get more surface area for gluing and have to make a special pair of neck-to-body connectors/rails for additional stability... Measuring 10 times to cut once!
Yeah there was but only a couple different concepts. Initially slightly strengthening by moving the neck pickup towards the bridge. Added a little shelf under the heel. Then using a tenon like an LP and extending the body join under the fret board. I like the simpler original neck joint. It is a much weaker joint but I am just careful with my guitars. Actually I would like to do a neck through.
The bed on my CNC router is a bit too short to do a full length neck, however the new version of Vectric Aspire 10.5 supports segmented milling that will allow me to do segments of the full cut...moving the work piece forward for each segment. I just purchased 14 bft of 2"x9" Honduran mahogany for the body (great looking stuff but $$$) from a local supplier last Saturday. I've cut several neck "adaptor," body pocket prototypes and successfully milled the back of the neck to accept the adaptor...My solution to providing the 3º down taper was to cut a custom "3º wedge insert" for the neck pocket. All fit's quite well and "snug". I still need to cut shape about 3" of the neck to get rid of the old heal and add the new 'U" at the end of the heal. What a project! I've spent at least 70 hrs working on the design and cutting prototypes!
You could just use indexing pins yourself and move and do the other half of the neck. Where are you located? Honduran Mahogany is quite pricey everywhere but I can find one piece body blanks without issue but they are quite pricey but not much more than two piece widths.
You mention a 3 degree neck angle? That is pretty steep for a flat topped guitar. Vintage SGs are usually around 1.3 - 1.8 degrees. Similar to LP JRs with a similar design. The angle relates to bridge height and with such a thin body it should not be very steep unless there are special cricumstances.
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