Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Dewesq, Dec 4, 2016.
What Biddlin said.
So, how does one make hide glue?
Also, given that folks have suggested heating hide glue joints (What's on your Workbench? thread) to the temperature of a hot car interior (~140°) in order to reset a neck, why would you want to use such a product on a break? Or in general for that matter? Not attacking, genuine curiosity here. Tradition is NOT an acceptable answer. I'd like scientific reasoning not mojo mumbo jumbo. Please & thank you.
The reason to use it is that it makes the strongest joints with the least likelihood of creep. To make it, you hydrate ground hide glue granules in water and then heat to 140 degrees.
OK so that's great and grand, but how do we know it is the strongest compared to the various wood glues etc., and why would you want a permanent repair performed with a glue that basically melts in a hot car? Honest questions.
Also, Fish glue is supposedly more liquid than hide glue and might get in to coat the joint better.
I've never used hide glue but always thought that hot hide glue is be used on something that might need to be disassembled at some time in the future by heating it and softening it up such as a neck set on an acoustic.
I always use wood glue on breaks like that, and on complete decapitations with no problems. Strong, permanent stuff, no need for anything else.
Speaking of hot car interiors, today is sentencing day for that scumbag Ross Harris
My point exactly.
My understanding is that this has been verified by testing.
That is one advantage of it, but as I understand things, it is not the only reason to use it. Perhaps wood glue would suffice, but I choose to defer to Dan's 40+ years of experience (which is not the same as "tradition.")
Let us know how it works out
I will, for sure.
Hot Hide Glue is the way to go..............if you have experience using it.
Whats so awesome about HHG is that as it soaks into the grain and drys it actually tightly draws the wood fibers together making for an exceptionally strong joint/ repair. Anytime the subject comes up about it's strength I like to site the example of when Howard Carter poked his head into King Tut's tomb and saw all of that intact funiture, it was all glued together using Hide Glue. It's still held together to this day.
So , If you have used HHG before then by all means that's the way to go. If not then plain Old Titebond will work just fine.
Nice info, Lou. Always great to hear from you.
In case our newbies do not know, Lou IS THE MAN when it comes to anything BUILDING or fixing guitars wise.
It so seems that in my first two years of retirement, that I'm producing my own natural hot hide glue. Well, I think that's what that residue is that I'm finding on the bed and sofa...
Eerily...you're on the right track...since hide glue is developed from animal hides!
And doesn't stink. The stench of hot hide glue permeates the atmosphere of your shop/home to the extent of making everything smell/taste like rotting flesh. Just thought I'd mention it, since a noob wouldn't know.
I just heard the sound of massive screeching brakes... ...
Have you ever had a guitar repair done with white glue fail?
OK, that's some good information. Especially the archeology bit. The heat issue still troubles me to an extent though. As I noted earlier, heating hide glue softens it, why is this a good thing in a fracture joint? My thinking would lean towards making it stable under all conditions would be preferable in a joint where string tension could cause issues. Again, trying to learn, so if I throw some counterpoints bear with me.
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