Cracked neck

Discussion in 'Epiphone SG' started by Wesley Huffman, Oct 27, 2016.

  1. Wesley Huffman

    Wesley Huffman New Member

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    I just bought this SG G-400 for $30 off letgo, the neck is cracked. I'm not really sure how I would fix this or if I were to get someone to do it how much it would cost, can anyone inform me? IMG_20161027_194029.jpg
     
  2. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    Does it move or wobble? In other words, do you notice any effects from the crack, for example when you tune/play, or is it just visible?
     
  3. Wesley Huffman

    Wesley Huffman New Member

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    The neck is pushed up a little, I haven't tuned it up and played it normally for fear of warping it any more.
     
  4. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    I see. Hard to tell from the pic, but one would have to gauge whether the crack is surface or deep, whether it affects the playing or not. Whatever is fucked will be fucked so enhancing the same damage will make no difference when it comes to repairs. Tune it up and see what happens.

    Having it repaired most likely will not be worth it, unless you love it deeply and truly, so you're going to have to take care of this yourself. But let's see what happens when you tune it up.
     
  5. eS.G.

    eS.G. Well-Known Member

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    YOu could always clean up the area a bit "FORCE" some good carpenters glue down in the cracks ---- clamp-- let dry and give it a whirl----
    You might salvage it---and have a great playing "beater" for 30.00 ;)

    Agreed for the cost of a pro repair ---you can just about go buy a nice Gibson Fusion SG new. ---- as that would be a complete sand down steam and remove neck rebuild pocket ---rest neck refinish .......or you could do these things yourself (if you are woodworking inclined) and learn a new skill ;)
     
  6. Wesley Huffman

    Wesley Huffman New Member

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    20161027_194713.jpg here are some more pictures, I don't know if these help at all. When I get home I'll tune it up and try it out and see what happens. 20161027_194724.jpg
     

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  7. WavMixer

    WavMixer Well-Known Member

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    I'd suggest to squeeze glue in the crack, as much as you can, remove strings, clamp it, wipe the excess glue and let dry over night.
     
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  8. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the above advice is all good and well but before gluing we need to determine exactly what's going on. Tune it up and see if the cracks widen. If so, detune, clamp and tune again. This is how the guitar will end up after gluing. Good enough? If so, tune, insert glue, detune, clamp. If not, then one will have to take another route...
     
  9. WavMixer

    WavMixer Well-Known Member

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    If you tune it, it may pull the separation more which could cause more damage. However increasing the gap will allow you to get the glue deeper into the crack. I have heard that some people water the glue down a bit to allow it to flow deeper, easier. I have not done this myself, just read it on the interweb.
     
  10. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    As long a it's the same damage, that won't matter. If you risk cracking the fret board or something then that's a different matter. In any case, the cracks need to be widened before gluing and if one just goes easy there's no real risk here.

    Also, it more than likely was tuned when this happened...
     
  11. jvin248

    jvin248 Active Member

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    .

    It looks like the sides of the glue joint let go while the back is still attached.

    Tension the strings slowly and use a small wedge with marks on it, strips of paper stacked up, feeler gages, or calipers to actually measure movement. Don't tighten the strings where you're ripping it more than already is (you probably won't since it had string load when it stopped breaking before). The strings at tuned tension pull with 125lbs of force, so be cautious. Don't try any gluing yet!

    Look down the crack with a bright flashlight and see if any wood fibers are bent. If they are bent out of alignment, try a small needle or pick or something to align them or pull them out since they will be cross-wise and lower the glue and clamping effectiveness.

    Get these accordion glue injectors. You can put wood glue in them and with the cap on the glue will still last just as if you had the original glue container.
    [​IMG]

    Make wood blocks to rest along the fretboard, with cutouts so you are not mashing the frets. Put a wood block behind the heel (remove the strap button). Use a sheet of wax paper between the guitar and the blocks so you don't accidentally glue them to the guitar. Two to four clamps (C-clamps, bar clamps, what you can find/borrow/buy) If you need to buy, stop in at Harbor Freight (with a 20% off coupon from the internet), they have both C and bar clamps in the right size you need for under $3 each.

    When you have everything plus a couple of hours so you don't feel rushed.
    Do a test run without glue to make sure you can organize yourself and things to have the strings at some helpful tension, force glue in the joint, release the strings, get them away from the clamp block area, get the blocks and clamps on.
    Then take a deep breath, tension the strings some and go to town getting glue in there, clamping, and cleaning off excess wood glue with a damp cloth, let it dry a couple of days.

    You'll need to do some 'drop fill' so search youtube for the stew mac video on drop filling. How detailed you get here will be how much you want to restore it or just smooth it out so nothing is sharp, the existing finish is stable/won't chip off, and the guitar is easy to play.

    .
     
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  12. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    What about the sides of the tenon jvin248 ? That for me is the biggest problem area, as it looks like it separated from the body, but there is no way to open up the crack to inject glue.

    At $30, I'd try to remove the neck, not much to loose there and a great way to gain experience on the matter.
     
  13. Biddlin

    Biddlin Well-Known Member

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    I would inject wood glue, clamp. wipe off excess, let sit and if it doesn't work you've got parts to sell on CL..
     
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  14. Chubbles

    Chubbles Well-Known Member

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  15. eS.G.

    eS.G. Well-Known Member

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    Send it to me I'll try it--- if it works --- you pay freight --- if not--- you pay freight......or abondone it here to be devoured by the DARK OVERLORD
    demonator2.jpg
     
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  16. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Well-Known Member

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    Yeah part of me thinks Biddlin is right, do it the quick and easy way and see if it holds.

    But part me wants to just snap the neck the rest of the way off and then glue all three sides and put it back on and clamp it etc.

    I'd probably go with what Biddlin says. And if it doesn't work then either snap it off and glue everywhere, or use it for kindling.
     
  17. eS.G.

    eS.G. Well-Known Member

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    IF you SNAP it off you run the risk of WAY damaging it beyond repair......if your taking it all the way of then steam it out.

    but it really looks like glue and clamps would get you a sweet playing axe for 30.00
     
  18. SG Lou

    SG Lou Moderator Staff Member

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    DO NOT WATER GLUE DOWN AND USE THAT......DO NOT JUST "TRY AND FORCE SOME GLUE INTO THE JOINT"
    Both will cause failure. I have repair a few of theose and believe it or not the best thing to do is ..................YA READY ? Break it off completely. Then glue it up and clamp it. You'll have way more gluing surface to work with resulting a much stronger joint.
    And PLEASE.............Don't use Gorilla Glue, Epoxy, or some other silly crap that you read about. Good old trusted REGULAR Titebond is all you need. Don't believe the BS that Titebond 2 or 3 is better , unless you plan on submerging your guitar under water.
     
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  19. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    AMEN !
     
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