Dead toggle switch channel ("Treble" in this case)

Discussion in 'Epiphone SG' started by Steve Segore, Apr 15, 2020.

  1. Steve Segore

    Steve Segore New Member

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    Hello and thank you for having a forum about SGs online.

    I have close to no electronics experience. I think I may have soldered something successfully
    30 or more years ago.

    I have a 2016 Epiphone G-400 and I don't currently have soldering equipment. One of the channels of the toggle switch must be dead or close to it. I hear some sound come out when I move the switch around in the channel (is that even the right term?)

    Can someone here point me to a YouTube or other video that CAREFULLY goes through the steps to fix the channel?

    Thank you for your time.

    Steve
     
  2. Bob Womack

    Bob Womack Well-Known Member

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    I had a 1990s Epi V that had a similar problem. Turned out they didn't use the standard Switchcraft switch and the blades were exposed. I opened up the access plate and blew out the switch while switching it back and forth and that fixed the problem. A chip had gotten lodged in between the blades.

    Bob
     
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  3. chilipeppermaniac

    chilipeppermaniac Well-Known Member

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    Steve, First thing to check is to open up the control cavity. Plug in the guitar and strum the strings and then wiggle the toggle back and forth. Note any changes as you got through all 3 positions. Then cycle all 4 control knobs back and forth numerous times. Sometimes dirt/dust etc can get in your potentiometers and cause a bad signal. Also, take a wooden chop stick and use it to touch around the wires and solder joints on all the control pots. Another thing to look for is if any of the connections, wires etc are touching the body of the guitar in the cavity to see if any are grounding out to the body and causing a short. Of course, strum the guitar as needed to see how your sound is working or not working or intermittently working and see if you can find any erratic functions.

     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
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  4. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    It is a common problem that is easily fixed by cleaning and lubricating the switch. It is a mechanical thing and it needs to be taken care of. Get yourself a can of Deoxit, or something similar, a cleaning/lubricating spray, not WD40.

    Open up the back plastic cover and spray the blades as you move the tip of the switch back and forth. If that doesn't cure the problem, take it out and dismantle it (2 screws) and slightly bend the prongs inwards so that the lever feels tighter.

    If you lubricate it from time to time, it will work flawlessly for years to come. Get that can of cleaner, you'll need it when your volume and tone will start to crackle.

    And welcome to the SG zoo Steve.

    Toggle switch.jpg
     
  5. chilipeppermaniac

    chilipeppermaniac Well-Known Member

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  6. chilipeppermaniac

    chilipeppermaniac Well-Known Member

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  7. Steve Segore

    Steve Segore New Member

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    It seems now that WD-40 makes a a more specialized product similar to Deoxit.

    WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz.

    This is cheaper (and there's more of it) than the 5 oz. size of Deoxit. But I wanted to check back to be certain that this is an
    OK choice in the instance that the toggle has dust or dirt in the way.

    I wonder now if in cleaning the guitar before putting it away that I might have - over a few years - sprayed the lemon oil cleaner
    (Music Nomad) on the toggle area inadvertently and got some into the area of the switch.

    I want to try a spray contract cleaner before trying to solder the toggle better or (gasp!) attempt to switch out the toggle.

    Thanks in advance for all the input.
    - Steve
     
  8. Steve Segore

    Steve Segore New Member

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    Hi Folks. I'm back and the Deoxit (actually WD-40 Contact Cleaner...a new product that does the same thing.
    I had no luck with it.

    All the connections seem fine to me coming from the potentiometers. The ones on the switch might have gotten in on another's way because
    they are small, but I can't be sure. My first question is,

    1) is it possible that there is something wrong with the wires going to the potentiometers leading to said and not the
    switch at all? Or does it sound like the switch to you? I tried pushing the "blades" together a bit as is reommended first, but that didn't seem to work.

    I haven't wielded even a small soldering iron in at least 23 years. I have watched the video above but I think the switch I would get it slightly different
    than the one I have.

    If I were to post a picture of the switch to be and my currently wired switch, would you folks be willing to tell me which wire should go to which "blade"
    "receptor" "hole" or whatever it's called?

    Oh...and I haven't wielded a soldering iron in 20+ years. But I'll bone up on safety, and be very careful.

    Thank you all so much. I know I'll get by with a little help from my new friends! (Hey, didn't George Harrison play an SG with The Beatles for a while in the late 60s? And Lennon played a Casino...

    Steve
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2020
  9. DrBGood

    DrBGood Well-Known Member

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    Check continuity of all wires. The switch is a simple apparatus, no reason for it not to work. See if there's any corrosion on the tip of the blades where contact is made
     
  10. Steve Segore

    Steve Segore New Member

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    PROBLEM SOLVED: THE SANDPAPER TRICK IN WORKED.
    THANK YOU ALL REGARDLESS.
    Steve
     
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