First SG Project

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Girl_Rock, Aug 17, 2019.

  1. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    I use an arduino uno, and I found a shield that is two rows of screw terminals, perfect for connecting to my drivers.

    cncs.jpg
     
  2. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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  3. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Wow, this is interesting, I tell my dad about it, thank you.
     
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  4. GrumpyOldDBA

    GrumpyOldDBA Well-Known Member

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    Hey girlrock any more updates? Is it finished or close?
     
  5. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Sorry, sorry, I'm still going on.

    I managed to finish the rightside chamber some days ago and I discovered that the two "holes" made by the tool, which fell down while milling, weren't real holes. The tool didn't break the wood enought to go through, but it stopped a very little bit before... BUT... while finishing the chamber it went down twice, again. "Luckily", I have in total one real hole (already covered), provocated while testing the drivers. I have already filled them with vinyl glue, they are inside the guitar, they can't be seen, so I don't mind.

    Then I glued the front and the back of the leftside. Today I have removed the weight for the glueing.

    I haven't taken pictures yet, they will arrive as soon as possible, that's the reason why I delayed with the post.
     
  6. GrumpyOldDBA

    GrumpyOldDBA Well-Known Member

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    Hey no rush you just have lots of people wishing you good vibes on this project!

    Stickers you cant put stickers on it!! Ha see my santana in the other guitars forum!!!
     
  7. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Pics:

    mod_body.jpg
    This is the body. As you can see the damage is not so visible...

    detail.jpg
    ... here in detail, the small circle indicated by the arrow is the hole I covered with some wood of the same plank. It seem a knot in the wood, the border is the glue.


    Next step is to glue the rightside and then the whole body, so that I can mill the zone for the neck. I reduced the angle, now it should be 1.5 degrees. I think I'm really close to the end, hoping everything goes right.
     
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  8. GrumpyOldDBA

    GrumpyOldDBA Well-Known Member

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    When i retire i will take a whack at making a guitar or two but ha ha yikes your like 50 years ahead of my first attempt! ( Dont feel bad for me im playing some nice guitars ha ha! )
     
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  9. Sp8ctre

    Sp8ctre Well-Known Member

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    Great build thread! Keep it going!
     
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  10. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    The rightside is glued, but I keep it under weight for another day
     
  11. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    I've just finished binding the two sides together. I used two ropes, in the same way of Gibson factory when it attaches tops on Les Pauls. Here two pics.

    (front)
    mod_glued_body_front.jpg

    (back)
    mod_glued_body_back.jpg

    I've already removed the glue in excess. I'm going to take off the two ropes tomorrow or the day after tomorrow.
     
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  12. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    It's looking good - that is a nice tight joint. And always give glue the extra day :cheers:
     
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  13. Silvertone

    Silvertone Well-Known Member

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    Looks great. As has been said very nice glue joint.

    Gibson does not use ropes to glue on their tops. They use a mulit-ton press. You may be thinking of the canvas rope they use to clamp their binding on Les Pauls.
    Capture.JPG

    Cheers Peter.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2020
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  14. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Yes, that is right
     
  15. Girl_Rock

    Girl_Rock Active Member

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    Just finished to mill...

    neck joint:
    mod_neck_joint.jpg
    This is the precision of the joint, quite good I think. It's not glued now.

    This is another one, from the body to the headstock:
    mod_through_neck.jpg
    The camera wasn't centered and neck leaned on an object just to take the photo, it isn't so sloped.


    The final weight of the wood:
    mod_body_weight.jpg
    1514 gramms (1.5 kg), very light, it's not maogany or maple...


    I'm really proud if this project, I've never thought I could arrived at this point. The greatest part of the job is done, this what counts. Now I must set the position for the bridge and the stop tail piece and then divide correctly the frets, I found a website for the calculation of this one.
     
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  16. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    Excellent work. Congratulations! The web site you found - does that do a proper 12th root of two calculation, and not the "rule of 18" garbage that Gibson apparently still use?
     
  17. Sp8ctre

    Sp8ctre Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic! You should be proud!
     
  18. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    Wow, that is really an awesome achievement! One thing that bothers me a bit though is the fretboard. I'd say you'd want one in a wood that's harder than what you use in the rest of the guitar. I've always gotten mine pre sloted so I'm not absolutely sure about this but perhaps someone that has actually made one can chime in. Still, that is some stellar sh1t right there!
     
  19. Silvertone

    Silvertone Well-Known Member

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    I do not think Gibson has used rule of 18 in about 60 yrs or more. Most of the vintage guitars late 50's into the 60's called their scale 24.75" but were a collection of about 2 or 3 around that mark. All modern 12th root. 24.5625" (24 9/16") and 24.625" (24 5/8") were the most common. Not sure what they use now but they call it, even their historic re-issues, 24.75" scale.

    Cheers Peter.
     
  20. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    All the info I can find says the Gibson still use rule of 18 to set fret spacing. Obviously this has nothing to do with scale length, which is an arbitrary choice as a starting point.
     

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