I first noticed this on the 2017 Gary Clark Jr's. They may have been doing this with the Custom's or LP's even earlier, I don't know.
Yeah. I had a 1996 Special with the bridge posts screwed into the Mahogany, and it leaned forward. The one in my avatar, to be precise. I had to drill out the holes, dowel the new holes, and redrill the holes for the posts. If I'd had my head screwed on straight, I woulda drilled it for bushings and used a conversion kit.
I went ahead and did a setup on my new SG tonight. It was really good from the factory but I knew I could make it even better, so i did. I took some relief out of the neck, its nearly straight as an arrow now with only a minuscule amount of relief, i try to get the relief in my necks as little as possible. I lowered the action as well. The action is pretty low now with only a hint of fret buzz(almost unnoticeable and you only hear it unplugged) ... Ive come to learn that all guitars will at least have a faint amount of buzzing somewhere on the fret board, especially if you like low action. The first setup I ever did was on my les paul and i tried to eliminate ALL fret buzz, hence why i worked on it for two days. The lesson I learned? Fret buzz happens. Try to get it to as little as possible, but its nearly impossible to eliminate it all together unless your attack is feather light. ive done so many setups over the years that i can do one in 15 minutes now. This guitar is amazing, i really hit the lottery with this one buying it blindly online. there are zero dead spots on the fretboard, and notes ring out all the way to the last fret, even when bending. nothing chokes or frets out.
I find if I spend too much time on the action, I end up getting confused and setting it too high to remove the buzz. Then I plug it in and realise I need to lower it and plugged in it doesn’t matter :)
It's a wonderful thing when the frets are level from the factory! I'm serious about that midnight creep, Bling. One of these days....
Maybe I should see if I can get some of those new ABR bushings, because my Historic had the posts bend forward and I went through hell retrofitting a Nashville because it needed a little more intonation room, too.
You don't need to change bushings! PhilaLuthier has conversion posts and wheels that screw right into your Nashville bushings.
No, I have an ABR. And they don't make conversion kits from ABR to Nashville because apparently nobody else but me would do that.
Oh. That is different. But still, they oughta. Lots of people would like to convert from ABR to Nashville, mostly because of intonation issues, right?
I had thought so, but I guess not. Maybe I'm the only one out there with an ABR that wasn't placed far enough back? Or people will just put up with intonation being off for the *supposed* benefits of the ABR...
I’ve been a member for awhile but haven’t really posted, so please forgive my response. 1961 SG’s came with cream colored toggle switch tips that had molding seams just like what came on your SG. It is possible that a very few early releases used the earlier Catalin tips.
Yep, saddle was turned and the studs are screwed right in, no bushing (it's a 2007). With the Nashville and unbent studs it has now, there is actually some extra room. So maybe I could go back to the ABR as long as it stayed straight. I managed to fit the Nashville so that it's still reversible to an ABR.
