Just got my SG setup

Discussion in 'Tone Zone' started by ZubinSG, Apr 10, 2005.

  1. ZubinSG

    ZubinSG Member

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    and there is buzzin on the top 2 strings, when played open or not

    its not there all the time, but its pretty annoying, but i really like the lowered action i have goin on

    The luthier said that if i wanted lowered action on my sg, this was one of the drawbacks because the guitar is so thin

    am i going to have to raise my action?
     
  2. 68GibsonSG

    68GibsonSG Member

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    yea too twice a day :lol: :lol: , you could raise the action, get new frets file those frets thats just if you dont like the fret buzz tho...
     
  3. CharlieB

    CharlieB Active Member

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    Standard string elevation is 3/64 at the 12th fret for the high E and 5/64 for the low E (also at fret 12).

    If you go much under that and you're gonna get buzzing when you bend up on the frets about fret 14 to 20. Why? Because the curvature of the fretboard presents a "hump" for the string to clear when you bend. The geometery of this is most pronounced when you're at fret 14-20 or so.

    The other thing is neck relief - there ought to be some!

    If you change string gauges, you're going to have to readjust the truss rod.

    Correct relief should be about .005-.010 or so. Heavier handed players need a bit more - but... as relief increases, so does fret 12 elevation.

    When you have the relief at about .010, and fret 12 elevation "just under" the the 3/64 that Gibson calls for, you're gonna be about as good as the laws of geometery will let it go.

    The only way to get lower action is to have a flatter neck radius. Gibson uses 12 inches, but guitars with say.... 16 or 20 inch radii can have lower action and no buzzing during bends. Action of about 2/64 is about where the limit is, no matter what the radius.

    If it buzzes, raise it just a tad - like 1/4 turn on the adjuster, and see how it goes.
     
  4. ZubinSG

    ZubinSG Member

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    wont that defeat the purpose of the setup i just got? wont it make it out of whack?

    sorry, im not the most knowlegdable person when it comes to guitars, thank you Charlie
     
  5. CharlieB

    CharlieB Active Member

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    Zubin....

    Ok, first realize one thing. A luthier MAKES stringed instruments (from scratch). A repair-man fixes and adjusts them.

    Having said that. There is quite a bit of room for individuality when "doing a setup".

    What is a setup? A setup is at least three things:

    1. Neck relief
    2. String elevation
    3. Intonation

    It may include new strings. It may include a light fret polish. It may include a setup of the nut. It may also include a polishing, cleaning of electronics, pickup elevation adjust, and maybe relubing the tuners and fine tuning (ie, filing and or sanding) of the saddles.

    Ok the three biggies.

    Relief: Press the low E at the highest fret and fret #1. You now have a straight line between those two points. At around fret #7 or #8, there ought to be just a little bit of room under the string. I mean a BARE amount. About as much room as your high E is in thickness. That is... from fret top to string bottom. Using a capo at fret 1 helps. (dont make it too tight). If there is too much room, tighten the truss rud a little. Not enough room, loosen it a little. Relief takes the envelope ... the vibration space.. of the strings into account, and lets the neck bend just a little to accomodate the strings moving more in the middle than on the ends.

    Elevation: Get your ruler (machinist ruler, available at home depot or sears) and get your strong magnifier and look at the space from the top of fret 12 to the bottom of the E strings. Low E about 5/64, high E about 3/64. You ought to be able to adjust the elevation to get those amounts of clearance. You can usually go a little lower on each end, but realize that the lower you go, the more its gonna buzz... starting with buzzing when bending at the high frets (14-20).

    Intonation: Use an electronic tuner. Critically tune the open string. Now go waaay on up the neck say at fret 17. It ought to be the correct note in pitch on the tuner. Say you tune your E string critically... I mean dead on. Go to fret 17, it ought to be an A "dead on" on the tuner. Some folks say go to fret 12 and do the octave, but I like to go past that where its even more sensitive. Too sharp, lengthen the string. Too flat, make it shorter (with the saddle adjustment).

    If you've done THAT - you've done 90 percent of any setup. You normally dont ever need to correct the nut or saddles unless there is a problem. Cleaning and polishing... er and new strings... its all just window dressing!

    Ok, ask away....
     
  6. paradox

    paradox Active Member

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    lots of good info on that response cb... this info should be in a reference section!
     
  7. ZubinSG

    ZubinSG Member

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    wow, thats alot of info, thanks again for that, i didnt know thats what a setup comprised of, but i will follow your instructions

    also, to clear it up, the guy that set up my guitar is also a luthier, he makes his own guitars and owns a lil company called hot rod customs
     
  8. solidhex

    solidhex Member

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    I've never tried that 17th fret method! I gotta check that out. Thanks CharlieB.

    --Brad
     
  9. skidshark

    skidshark Active Member

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    great post cb.....there really should be a "CB's reference section" here somewhere for your words!!
     

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