Moving SG output jack from top to side. Ideas for that hole?

[donepearce]

The Gibson Varitone is a series LC circuit that is being used as a band pass filter. The switch selects different caps which tunes the circuit to different frequencies. This has noting to do with the tone control on the guitar.

I only used the word loosely - in a later post I said the inductor should be omitted. That reverts it to normal tone function. And it is a band stop, not a band pass.

 

[jk67SG]

I'm no electrical engineer and soldering sometimes burns my finger tips, so I actually like 'Qwik-Connects'......

First, make sure you're holding the right end of the soldering iron MR D (kidding....)
Seriously, get a 'third hand' device- weighted base, 1 or 2 flexible arms with spring clips on the ends (2 arms suggested) and use them to maneuver the wires (or objects) into the position you want them to end up being soldered in, and proceed to solder painlessly. If you only encounter this problem occasionally, you can improvise with a piece of heavy solid copper wire from a scrap of romex or other common house wiring, attach it to something heavy (small vise, vise grips, hemostats with a weight on the handles) and tape your wire to that (not too close to where you're soldering) and bend the copper wire so the wire you're soldering is in the position you want it in.

On drilling holes... be warned that many SG's have had their body cracked along it's longitudinal axis because of the weakening of the lower bout by the control cavity... drilling additional hole(s) only increases the danger of this happening. Not advising that this not be done if this is really important to you OP, just be aware of the risks before proceeding.

And finally, while at my luthier/guitar tech/friend's workshop, he had just begun to open up a PartsCaster that someone had brought in because it was 'noisey / crackling'. When he opened it up, there were a number of Qwik-Connects in it. He looked at me and shook his head and told me that it happens all the time. He replaces the Quik-Connects with solder connections and the guitars never come back with the same problem again. A good solder joint can last as long as the guitar. Connector contacts are less reliable, and Murphy's Law dictates that they will likely fail at the least convenient time.

 

[An Abiding Dude]

Here's a simple idea that won't destroy the value of your guitar through modification. Seek out a mid-late '80s Standard. I have an '86 and it came straight from the factory with the side jack. It seems like Gibson experimented with it for a couple of years and then went back to the front-facing jack by the early '90s (maybe even a little before, it was a relatively small window production-wise).

 

[Arthwys]

Here's what the internals layout look like on an 81 Gibson Firebrand SG Deluxe

 

[sazista]

Which model 2002 'SG' is the guitar ? AYK, Modding an 'SG' like this MIGHT kill its re-sale value. Getting the 490's out of the guitar(1st thing I would do!) would be a g-g-g GREAT idea, '61 Neck & '57+ IN Bridge(?)leaving it 100% GIBSON USA parts, and adding the 4 conducter wiring is a good idea as well. Putting the input jack on the side is where things get sketchy... Finding a Jack Plate that will fit on the side, like the Les Paul's have, is certainly Do-able, BUT, overall is it worth the headaches ? IDK.....The 'SG's that have input jacks on the side might be a good thing to replicate in terms of 'HOW TO' accomplish how it should be done.....the 1979 'SG' 'The "SG"' has a side input jack and had a slightly thicker body to accomodate the Input Jack plate, IIRC...
The extra hole seems tailor made for a Varitone, if only as some people think it looks interesting/COOLIO ("WTF IS THAT THING ?) and MIGHT be better than a plug.....SO, if If IF, you do not mind the resale value being affected, HAVE AT IT !Swapping out the 490 Pickup's while at it.......
I'm no electrical engineer and soldering sometimes burns my finger tips, so I actually like 'Qwik-Connects'......
People will want to see whatever it is you end up doing, post some pics when you are done, yes? Posting pics on this website might be the most difficult part of the whole dealio.
IDK, but did Frank Zappa have to route out the control cavity on 'Roxy' ?

Mr. D. The SG in question is a Gibson SG 2002 Faded (crescent inlays). I'm still mulling over the idea of that or just putting in an additional toggle switch. I have push/pulls in my Epi SG, and I really like the sound variation as it is wired for series/parallel. I tried the in/out of phase and it just sounded thin and not very useful.
Regarding resell value. I have no plan on selling it. I'm in Chile and people here don't have a lot cash to spend anyhow, so the market is quite small. I'd say 75% of musicians here survive on Squiers, Epis, etc. They'd offer me like $300.00 anyhow. It'll stay with me as I add a Les Trem II, then call it a day.

 

[Von Trapp]

I wouldn't use the drill bits mentioned earlier. What you need to do is first drill a guiding hole with a small regular drill bit, then drill the length of the output jack with a Forstner bit of the appropriate size, then drill the rest, if needed, with a regular drill bit of an appropriate size to get the cables through. Use a string and a weight to check you're straight like I mentioned earlier. Preferably you should have a metal ring round the drill bit, a string from that and a weight at the end. Resell value is for cowards, go for it.

 

[MR D]

Mr. D. The SG in question is a Gibson SG 2002 Faded (crescent inlays). I'm still mulling over the idea of that or just putting in an additional toggle switch. I have push/pulls in my Epi SG, and I really like the sound variation as it is wired for series/parallel. I tried the in/out of phase and it just sounded thin and not very useful.
Regarding resell value. I have no plan on selling it. I'm in Chile and people here don't have a lot cash to spend anyhow, so the market is quite small. I'd say 75% of musicians here survive on Squiers, Epis, etc. They'd offer me like $300.00 anyhow. It'll stay with me as I add a Les Trem II, then call it a day.

NICE, those In-Lays are the **** !The Doozy LT II is a great idea, I recommend them highly.....Do Note: Quite a few players do not like them, but, so what?.... its your guitar. IDK, but I think its due to 'ugly' looks, BUT But but I find the 'Doozy' LT-II very useful and when using the 'Doozy' I find that my guitars stay in tune better than any Maestro/Bigsby ever did...AND the LT II goes on and off the guitar easily w/no modifications and IMO gives the Floyd Rose's of the guitar world a run for their money as well......I put the same LT II's on Explorer's/SG's/Firebird's and the guitars all retained their 'RING'-ing. I've yet to have a single problem. Unlike certain after-market Roller-Bridges that just ruined the tone of the guitar (Stew-Mac's Golden Eagle R.-B.=TURD), the LT-II doesn't affect the tone of any of my guitars at all. IMO, German engineering is a just step above all others, it just is.Again, GREAT CHOICE !

 

[SoundsGood]

maybe use a telecaster cup output jack

 

[MR D]

First, make sure you're holding the right end of the soldering iron MR D (kidding....)
Seriously, get a 'third hand' device- weighted base, 1 or 2 flexible arms with spring clips on the ends (2 arms suggested) and use them to maneuver the wires (or objects) into the position you want them to end up being soldered in, and proceed to solder painlessly. If you only encounter this problem occasionally, you can improvise with a piece of heavy solid copper wire from a scrap of romex or other common house wiring, attach it to something heavy (small vise, vise grips, hemostats with a weight on the handles) and tape your wire to that (not too close to where you're soldering) and bend the copper wire so the wire you're soldering is in the position you want it in.

On drilling holes... be warned that many SG's have had their body cracked along it's longitudinal axis because of the weakening of the lower bout by the control cavity... drilling additional hole(s) only increases the danger of this happening. Not advising that this not be done if this is really important to you OP, just be aware of the risks before proceeding.

And finally, while at my luthier/guitar tech/friend's workshop, he had just begun to open up a PartsCaster that someone had brought in because it was 'noisey / crackling'. When he opened it up, there were a number of Qwik-Connects in it. He looked at me and shook his head and told me that it happens all the time. He replaces the Quik-Connects with solder connections and the guitars never come back with the same problem again. A good solder joint can last as long as the guitar. Connector contacts are less reliable, and Murphy's Law dictates that they will likely fail at the least convenient time.

Thanks for that advice, I took a screen shot 'For next time', u kno?
I have a few guitars w/Qwik Connects and while they are not noisey (after I shielded them) it seems to me that the whole idea was about co$t cutting and therefore yet another CHEAPO move by GIBSON USA...when I get around to sorting whch ones are getting the re-wiring I will surely heed your advice...and even get to stop burning my fingertips too.OUCH !

IDT I would ever drill a hole for another In-Put jack in a GIBSON SG, no. But I always did prefer the side mounting In-Put Jack that a couple of them had...IDK exactly why either as it has no effect on how I play or sound.
I was going to ask you a question 'bout actual 'SOLDER' but it seems a dumb question and I am at my daily limit for dumbo moves.

 

[sazista]

Results. I didn't do it, because the luthier had already started on the push/push installation and converting the 490s from 2 to 4 cables. He was basically done by the time I got back to him with my request. So output jack stays on top for now, BUT, I still want it moved in the near future. Thanks for your input.