Neck Separation Anxiety

Harry Streaker

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Hey!

I'm new to SG's and I'm a novice when it comes to working on guitars, so bare with me... I bought a 1996 Epi SG-400 off Reverb to be a project guitar... upon inspection I found that the neck has a slight crack or separation on both sides of the joint, the side of the low E string being the worst. The high E side appears to be very minor. The low E side does not seem to flex or open when I put pressure on the neck. I haven't played it yet because I'm doing minor work to it...will hopefully have it up and running today. Just wondering if these types of separations are common/normal/ok... Is injecting glue a good idea?
 

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DrBGood

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Oooo ... hope you had a great deal on it.

Surface cracks on the outside is pretty common, but this is something else. It is structural and needs to be addressed. Personally I would inject glue in there and try to strap it shut. One of those tie down ratchet straps should work great for that.

What kind of glue though, I'm not certain about. Someone with more expertise with that kind of repair, should join this conversation in a short time I believe.

Oh yeah, and welcome to ESG Harry.
 

Biddlin

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Hey Harry, welcome. I think we've got you covered.
inject glue in there and try to strap it shut. One of those tie down ratchet straps should work great for that.

Any wood glue will do fine, I use Elmer's. Just ratchet the strap tight enough that the crack closes(forcing some glue back out.) wipe off excess glue. Let set 24 hours and you're golden. Pics of the completed project are required!;)
 

Col Mustard

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Welcome to ETSG...

That guitar looks like it fell on its face, or else its owner tried one of those
"Whip yer guitar around yer neck while playing" stunts. ...and of course the
SG flew over the back of the stage and landed on a dumpster (and broke a banjo
and two accordions).

Anyway, you may as well try and fix it. Good luck to your project.
And yes, we'll remind you of our motto around here:

PICTURES, OR IT NEVER HAPPENED
 

Bonzo21

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how is the rest of the heel joint? sides of the neck, underside where it connects to body. If it shifted enough to crack up there I suspect (non professionally) that it would also crack at other spots. Otherwise, it could be that there was a gap there when the neck was put on and it created a weak bridge of finish that cracked from movement/drying... can you make it move if you try? If not it might be the latter... If you can move it, its likely serious damage.
 

Chubbles

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+1 on Elmers, in general, my go to wood glue. That and a bunch of toothpicks have fixed many problems for me.
 

DrBGood

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Fill the cracks with glue, strap the body in line with the repair, probably at horns height, and tighten.
Wipe excess glue.
Wait 24 hours.
Untie strap.
Be happy.
 

Lynurd Fireburd

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To make sure the glue penetrated sufficiently I'd use a thin pallatte type knife, like a feeler gauge, and force glue deep enough into those separations. Like others said, strap it & wait. Glue being pushed back out is a good sign.

You should be good.

Good luck & keep us posted.
 

syscokid

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Fill the cracks with glue, strap the body in line with the repair, probably at horns height, and tighten.
Wipe excess glue.
Wait 24 hours.
Untie strap.
Be happy.
I'm having a hard time visualizing the strapping. A photo of the strapping technique would help me a lot. I tried Google-ing and Bing-ing, and I couldn't find anything.
 

DrBGood

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If you had a vise big enough to fit it in, it'd be even better. I don't think you'll find that illustrated anywhere either.

Stapping across the top shoulders of the guitar, where it is wider, just below the horns, so the strap doesn't slip. It will apply pressure to close the cracks.

Something like this.

1962_Gibson_SG_Body_95093_001-1500x1438 copy.jpg
 
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syscokid

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If you had a vise big enough to fit it in, it'd be even better. I don't think you'll find that illustrated anywhere either.

Stapping across the top shoulders of the guitar, where it is wider, just below the horns, so the strap doesn't sip. It will apply pressure to close the cracks.

Something like this.

Gracias... :cool:
 

Biddlin

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If you had a vise big enough to fit it in, it'd be even better.
Such a device is relatively easy to make
moxonvise_illustration1_1.jpg

Horvath and Veritas both make commercial versions.
 

Norlin SG

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if the cracks go from front to back, they might just be finish cracks. My 1978 has had cracks at the neck joint for 25 years or so and they haven't grown at all since I dropped it and they showed up.

Show us some pics................
 

Notabot

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I understand using good wood glue to make this repair. Wouldn't super glue, clamped immediately provide a good bond too? It might flow deeper into the crack making it more effective.
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I wonder, how do you think StuMac would do it???
 

Raiyn

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I understand using good wood glue to make this repair. Wouldn't super glue, clamped immediately provide a good bond too? It might flow deeper into the crack making it more effective.
-
I wonder, how do you think StuMac would do it???
I wouldn't. The "might flow deeper" argument doesn't beat the "limited work time" argument for me. CA in my view, is better for small unstressed joints. Structural stuff needs Titebond.

My 2¢
 

grausch

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I understand using good wood glue to make this repair. Wouldn't super glue, clamped immediately provide a good bond too? It might flow deeper into the crack making it more effective.
-
I wonder, how do you think StuMac would do it???

In the few cases where I have used wood glue, the glue itself ended up being stronger than the wood itself - it was almost impossible to "undo" some of my errors as the wood would break before the glue would. If I were gluing a neck I would only use wood glue. Superglue just isn't as strong.
 


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