NGD: Gibson SG Special Faded

JH1968

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I just picked her up off of eBay at a very reasonable price because she came with no pickups. I had the PCB board removed and replaced with an older SG harness I had. Pickups are a set of old DiMarzio’s. Feels great, plays great, and sounds great. 7B9DA86A-AE36-48AF-85C8-1DB636386118.jpeg
 

Biddlin

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Beauty. Mine are a little beat up, but still the best "gigging" guitars in my remuda.
Specs.jpg
 

papagayo

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I love those SG Special Faded, great guitar, bravo!
 

Biddlin

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What do u set the Neck Relief at ?
Low enough where the action is comfortable and high enough that the strings don't buzz on the first 14 frets.
With a new set of the strings of your choice, restring and tune your guitar. Starting with the low E at fret 15,check each note on every string from fret 15 to 22(24) , raising the bridge to get out the buzz or lowering it until the string buzzes and raising it to get minimum clearance, slacking the strings and retuning between adjustments. Repeat on the high E. Now you need to adjust the trussrod, in 1/8 turn increments, retuning between adjustments. If your strings buzz on the frets 1-14, you need to increase the neck relief by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.. If the strings are buzz free, but seem too high, you want to decrease relief by turning clockwise until you hear buzzing, then increase relief by a tiny bit until the buzzing stops. Once it feels and plays good, set your intonation,again slacking and retuning each string, between adjustments.
Now you've done a custom setup, without measuring tolerances and saved yourself a few bucks! Measurements are just numbers. The geometry of your particular instrument and the force of your attack and fretting will determine the "correct" tolerances.
(Secondary lesson here: Your ears are your most important gauge!)
 

MR D

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Low enough where the action is comfortable and high enough that the strings don't buzz on the first 14 frets.
With a new set of the strings of your choice, restring and tune your guitar. Starting with the low E at fret 15,check each note on every string from fret 15 to 22(24) , raising the bridge to get out the buzz or lowering it until the string buzzes and raising it to get minimum clearance, slacking the strings and retuning between adjustments. Repeat on the high E. Now you need to adjust the trussrod, in 1/8 turn increments, retuning between adjustments. If your strings buzz on the frets 1-14, you need to increase the neck relief by turning the adjuster counterclockwise.. If the strings are buzz free, but seem too high, you want to decrease relief by turning clockwise until you hear buzzing, then increase relief by a tiny bit until the buzzing stops. Once it feels and plays good, set your intonation,again slacking and retuning each string, between adjustments.
Now you've done a custom setup, without measuring tolerances and saved yourself a few bucks! Measurements are just numbers. The geometry of your particular instrument and the force of your attack and fretting will determine the "correct" tolerances.
(Secondary lesson here: Your ears are your most important gauge!)

True enough, #'s are just numbers......Many people do things different ways....most times there are 100 ways to do the same thing.My question, to the OP, was more an opinion question, which, last I looked had not been answered.
On a GIBSON solid body eletric w/properly cut nut(strings all clear 1st fret, by players preferred clearance, when capo'd at 3rd fret), 12" Radius FB.....003" @ 9TH Fret makes everyone of mine RING and play their best, when put away for a relief from getting beat on...005" @ 9TH Fret insures no twisting warping ect....while not getting beat on and are just hanging out in their HSCase.

hence the question to the OP. Some people still use Notched straightedges and feeler gauges (Erlewine,or Moi, for examples.. not that he, or me, needs to at this point) as these things do work on non-injured properly functioning guitars w/properly cut nuts.
 

Biddlin

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On a GIBSON solid body eletric w/properly cut nut(strings all clear 1st fret, by players preferred clearance, when capo'd at 3rd fret), 12" Radius FB.....003" @ 9TH Fret makes everyone of mine RING and play their best, when put away for a relief from getting beat on...005" @ 9TH Fret insures no twisting warping ect....while not getting beat on and are just hanging out in their HSCase.
I have no clue and please don't explain what you mean.
 

MR D

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I have no clue and please don't explain what you mean.

what I already explained is 'The TAP TEST', any Luthier I've ever met, or even Guitar tech, knows what it is, and how it is used to assess if a Guitars Nut is correctly cut.(...OR....using a S.A.G. @ 1st fret.....).A 'Dead on' ringing 2nd octave open A-E or D is the aim.
 
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