Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Goldfingerz, Dec 26, 2020.
Yes I am thinking along these lines thanks.
Do NOT go near sandpaper until you have tried the finer options like car paint polishing compound. And if you want to try an area first, unscrew the pickguard and do it under there.
Yes good idea thanks.
A little bit about my background - I'm a piano tuner/restorer by trade and have been a pro keyboard player/Hammond organist for over 5 decades and still recording, I just picked up guitar for a new challenge, so I'm still learning about Nitro guitar care etc. I appreciate the advice.
I'm def. a Gibson humbucker man, tried Fenders, had problems with their tiny 3/16" truss rods, prefer Gibson 3/8" truss rods and Pearly Gates pu's are nice!!
I would like to get this SG back to looking nice, it's a good keeper, nice neck, near new frets. Sure the relic look has it's merits but when I see the words "road worn" I run miles, that means a re fret job to me, no thanks. So I don't want a road worn look on this "tuxedo" baby!
On another note I recently top wrapped the strings and bolted the tailpiece down to the body. The string angle to the bridge is less acute and I notice the guitar is slightly louder acoustically. I only use flatwound 9's strings, easier to play for me, it's a journey...
That's a Nashville Bridge.
It's flipped 180 degrees backwards.
Screws should face the tailpiece.
Look at the notches on the saddles.
Treble strings should sit in narrow notches.
Bass strings should sit in wider notches.
The flat side of the saddles should face the nut.
From the factory:
Nashville - screws face the tailpiece
ABR-1 - screws face the pickup
Oh ok, I did wonder why the thin E string has such a wide notch in the saddle. Thanks so much for that, I will swap it around and re do the intonation. The notches are ok, just in the wrong order, I'm still learning, thanks
All good, we are all learning. I am certainly not the whiz that some of the members here are. They have taught me a ton, but I learn something every day on here
I would like to second that. The products I mentioned are what you usually use after you've sanded so even if you would start sanding you'll still need them... Most guitar cleaning products are just woodoo sauce but these are for cars. Since they're quite pricey you might want to have a go at what I did before buying them which wast to just saunter in to the nearest car recond with the guitar and go Hey guys, I have a problem, since they buy it by the gallon. They were more than happy to splash me some there and then and help out, taking a keen interest. Once convinced it worked they sold me some at cost.
The entire tune-o-matic bridge family can have their saddle adjustment screws facing either nut or tailpiece.
The only become oriented after the saddles have been slotted for specific string gauges and string spacing.
as far as the finish goes.
You're gonna have to try REAL hard to get through the clear coat on that guitar if you're using anything above 600 grit paper and your hands.
But an aggressive-ish polishing compound is the smart place to start. Easier to Polish it out than to sand it out THEN polish it up.
Scotch brite pads are way more aggressive than you'd think. You get way more control and less of a random scuffing with wet-sand paper in the higher grits. 800 - and up.
Can't wait to see the success story! good luck!
Hi Von Trapp,
I found some Amour All cut and polish in the shed along with some normal polish Kitten polishing liquid. I rubbed in some Amour All on a test area and it did not react with the Nitro which is good. The blemishes are deep in the Nitro so hand buffing barely made any difference. I will go buy some buffing wheels I can use with the electric drill, see how that goes, again use a test area first.
I bought a Scotch Brite green pad and rubbed the back of the neck to a satin finish so the neck is now fixed, it's just the front. Yes I'm not a wealthy person so I will try to make do with the materials I have first, thanks
I turned the bridge around so the saddle slots now suit the string gauges. I can access the adjustment screws no worries so all good there.
I don't want to touch the front of the guitar with any sandpaper 800+ or Scotch Brite pad if I can help it. I am going to try to buff it out with some cutting compound first. I'm hoping to clear the blemishes then re polish. I think maybe a foam pad for the cutting and a cloth pad for the polishing.
The guitar doesn't have to look new, I'm a practical person and this guitar is 10 years old, I'm the 2nd owner. Frets are like new. I replaced the 15:1 Kluson tuners with 18:1 Grovers, much better.
Yes thanks I see this is a common product used, cheers
Top wrapping the stop bar and having the intonation screws face backwards make for super easy adjustment. Inability to get a straight shot at intonation screws is one of my pet peeves, and makes me wish they had use hex heads instead of flat slots.
Yes my screwdriver slips out easy of the screw heads, at least with the stop bar down firm to the body there is plenty of room to reach them, cheers
Those scotch bite pads are way more aggressive than you think.
They're ok on some things but I wouldn't want to mix them with polishing compound. They tend to be hard to "read" or control for what you're doing. Wet high grit paper gives you infinitely more see/feel control over the work you're doing.
And for straight up polishing compound - rags should do just fine.
Yes, the compunds are the way to go. But get thee to a car recond and see if they can't help. Anyt guitar related stuff I've brought to guys like that has always had them involved and glad to help so it would surprise me if they didn't. Worth a shot, and those guys are pros.
all is right in the world again I love seeing those screws face up.
It’s a mistake many of us have made. I took my bridge off once when cleaning and put it on backwards. I was none the wiser until someone pointed it out. Although I noticed my e string would pop off sometimes as it was in the skinny saddle.
oddly, one of my ABR 1 bridges has the screws facing away from the pick up, stock from Gibson. So I guess it can go both ways as long as the saddles are swapped.
Yes I agree, thanks
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