Discussion in 'Gibson SG' started by SG Champagne, Nov 20, 2018.
Is there a thread somewhere with this information, please? Thanks.
What are you looking for exactly ? That SG should setup like any other.
I figured that maybe the Schaller bridge would alter things.
If you search the forum theres a bunch of hits
But the setup methods are still the same as any other.
The Harmonica bridge was invented to give players more room for intonation,
solving the problems associated with the older ABR-1 Bridge which was
invented in the '50s when guitar strings came in one gauge: heavy.
By the '70s players were using lighter strings and having difficulty
getting proper intonation with the older bridge design.
The bridges are not interchangeable, because the Harmonica bridge is installed
without the angle that we see on Gibsons with the Nashville or ABR-1 bridge.
I'd love to get one for my SG '70s tribute, but the stock Nashville bridge works
fine and intonate perfectly, and that's what is important.
Love harmonica bridges.
Per forum policy you must post pictures of the guitar, or you will be “nut checked” by the nearest forum member.
The guitar is pictured in my avatar.
OW! ... this is the only kind of nut checking we allow...
Automatic nut check, and avatar is not a proper picture.
Let's give it a try.
Wait, that's not my guitar.
That's not me and my guitar either, I don't think.
OK, there it is !
Can we see green striped socks holding the guitar?
I've never owned a turquoise long-sleeved shirt, that's how I know that's not me and my guitar.
Ok, one more time with feeling: Here is my foolproof setup method. You will need new strings, a trussrod wrench, small screwdriver, short handled screwdriver and patience. Make sure that your bridge is clean with no frozen or stripped screws, including the studs. A light application of machine oil such as 3in1 is a good idea. If you have a stopbar tailpiece, make sure it is clean and that the adjuster studs are working smoothly, again a little oil may be in order. Same with a Bigsby, make sure it's cleaned and lubed before beginning the procedure. Take a sharp #2 lead pencil and put a little graphite in the nut slots to prevent binding.The tailpiece and bridge height should not be adjusted under tension from the strings, so you will need to slacken and retune between adjustments. If you have a stopbar, raise it approx 3/8" or topwrap your strings.
Install your strings and tune to your usual tuning (the tuning and pitch you normally use.) Begin by setting the bridge height for frets 16-22 so that the strings play buzz free at the lowest possible height.
Start with low E. Lower the bass side until it buzzes, raise until clear. Check A and D raise slightly if needed to get clean notes. Then do the treble side. If you bend notes up here, try a few typical bends, to make sure they don't buzz out.
When all strings play clean go to the lower frets and neck relief. Play the high E string from fret 1 to fret 16, increasing relief (loosening trussrod) to relieve buzz or decreasing relief (tightening trussrod) to lower the string height. So tighten, by fractional turns, until it buzzes and back off until it doesn't. If you bend strings , do your typical bends to insure they don't buzz out. Once satisfied, check the other strings and make small adjustments as needed.
Once you have acceptable relief, i.e. no buzz and easy action, set your intonation and you're done.
This is the opposite order of most setup directions. It is based on performance and not measurements, hence, I don't take any. It works because the neck is immobile between frets 17 and 22. The trussrod only affects lower frets. By setting the upper end first, you know any buzzes are coming from too little relief. This method works for most guitars, with truss rods.
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