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SG Classic wiring?

ChubbyFingers

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I had a long standing job to do, replacing a broken bridge ground wire on my SG.

So I took the opportunity, today after work, to rewire the thing completely.

It got a Seymour Duncan Jazz humbucker in the neck and a Seymour Duncan 59/ Custom in the bridge. The new wiring is as follows:

* CTS TAOT (10% tolerance) 500k pots
* Independent volumes
* 0.015 uF orange drop tone cap on the neck, 0.022 uF orange drop on the bridge
* Tone caps wired 50s style, connected to the volume pot outputs.
* NO coil splits phase flips, treble bleeds, NUFFINK!
* Genuine Switchcraft toggle switch
* Wired it with single core cloth covered wire with braided metal sheathing throughout except the pickup leads (obviously) and the neck output wire to the switch.

The braided wire allowed me to ground all the pots to each other, to the switch, thence to the output jack. I used the inner core for the bridge out from the volume pot then ran the braided wire in a "U" (don't call it a loop!) round to all the other pots, grounding the casings to the outer braid. All of it was covered in heat shrink to avoid the risk of shorts.

I'm still setting the thing up again, but so far I'm very pleased indeed.

Next up the Epi LP is getting the same treatment but I may wire the neck in backwards for that out of phase tone in P2.

20230127_192436.jpg
 

devnulljp

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I've come to terms with my SG Classic having been modded before it fell into my hands. The bones of the thing are still good, despite the pickup routes. The pickguard might actually be an upgrade -- 5-ply instead of 3-ply. Like toilet paper, that would be better right?
As pickups aren't original, I can put a set of Vinehams in it without feeling bad about it. I have some bumblebee and Russian PiO caps sitting here too, so they'll go in when I get the new pickups.
 


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