SGJ reimagined into a 61 style— New (to me) guitar day!

[Will V.]

I posted a WTB here a while back for an SGJ, and a fine gentleman from Canada answered with photos of a well worn 2013 SGJ that was more than a husk but not complete (although all said and done, all the original parts were included, except the pickups). It was a solid deal and I loved the wabi sabi that made it look way more than ten years old.

Shipping took a solid three weeks, which I blame on US Customs and Border Protection. I got it last night and thought that maybe I'd get a chance to put it all together next week sometime. Well, I was too excited for that, and got it all done today. I conditioned the fretboard with Tried & True Original Wood Finish, which is my favorite stuff to use on necks and it's great for fingerboards. It's a combination of food safe (i.e., no chemical drying agents) polymerized linseed oil and beeswax. I also polished the frets, which are in fantastic condition. I dropped in some Epiphone USA 50SR and 50ST pickups originally from an Epiphone Elitist ES-335 (braided wire leads!). The circuit board wiring harness had been replaced with a nice hand wired harness. I also replaced the black Gibson tuners with Grover Deluxe, and the tailpiece with a lightweight Kluson. The bridge is still the original Nashville, I don't mind it, but I'll probably change it because it's chrome rather than the nickel on the pickups and tailpiece. A Creamtone pickguard and truss rod cover were added by the previous owner.

The setup was effortless and it feels like an old, comfortable guitar. It sounds fantastic. The Epiphone pickups sound clear and bright, like good PAF's should. The neck is a serious chunker. I mostly go for slimmer necks, but I like having a little variety and it feels buttery.

 

[Torvald]

Cool project! And 24 frets too. I have those exact same pickups in a kit type SG that I bought for $35 as rescue guitar. They do sound excellent.

 

[papagayo]

Well done

 

[jtcnj]

NIce!
How does 24 fret neck / depth of neck joint geometry affect the feel of the guitar?

 

[Will V.]

NIce!
How does 24 fret neck / depth of neck joint geometry affect the feel of the guitar?

Thanks! Is the geometry different? I’m not sure it is. Frets 23 and 24 take up the space where the neck tenon cover would be on a 22-fret SG, right? If there is a difference I don’t notice it. I mostly notice the chunky neck and how good it feels.

 

[DrBGood]

Chunky neck ... I need a 2013 SGJ.

 

[Gary Gretsch]

Chunkier the better.

 

[Dave]

Sweet!
Congrats

 

[DrBGood]

Chunkier the better.

You know if the 2014 has it too ?

 

[Norton]

That guitar looks fantastic

 

[MR D]

I posted a WTB here a while back for an SGJ, and a fine gentleman from Canada answered with photos of a well worn 2013 SGJ that was more than a husk but not complete (although all said and done, all the original parts were included, except the pickups). It was a solid deal and I loved the wabi sabi that made it look way more than ten years old.

Shipping took a solid three weeks, which I blame on US Customs and Border Protection. I got it last night and thought that maybe I'd get a chance to put it all together next week sometime. Well, I was too excited for that, and got it all done today. I conditioned the fretboard with Tried & True Original Wood Finish, which is my favorite stuff to use on necks and it's great for fingerboards. It's a combination of food safe (i.e., no chemical drying agents) polymerized linseed oil and beeswax. I also polished the frets, which are in fantastic condition. I dropped in some Epiphone USA 50SR and 50ST pickups originally from an Epiphone Elitist ES-335 (braided wire leads!). The circuit board wiring harness had been replaced with a nice hand wired harness. I also replaced the black Gibson tuners with Grover Deluxe, and the tailpiece with a lightweight Kluson. The bridge is still the original Nashville, I don't mind it, but I'll probably change it because it's chrome rather than the nickel on the pickups and tailpiece. A Creamtone pickguard and truss rod cover were added by the previous owner.

The setup was effortless and it feels like an old, comfortable guitar. It sounds fantastic. The Epiphone pickups sound clear and bright, like good PAF's should. The neck is a serious chunker. I mostly go for slimmer necks, but I like having a little variety and it feels buttery.

CONGRATULATIONS, LOOKS LIKE AN OLD FRIEND !

 

[MR D]

BTW, WHAT DO YOU SET THE NECK RELIEF AT ?

 

[Will V.]

BTW, WHAT DO YOU SET THE NECK RELIEF AT ?

I'm ashamed to admit I didn't set it, and don't even have any gauges to be able to measure it. However, it did not need adjustment, IMO. After setting the bridge height, it plays great. No problematic buzz and the action is quite consistent up and down the neck.

 

[MR D]

I'm ashamed to admit I didn't set it, and don't even have any gauges to be able to measure it. However, it did not need adjustment, IMO. After setting the bridge height, it plays great. No problematic buzz and the action is quite consistent up and down the neck.

Bro, you can use the Low 'E' string to set the neck relief...You do not necessarily need Notched Straightedges & Feeler Gauges (what I usually use for a 1st time set-up)). Fret the 1st and last frets (use a capo) and check the string height at the 9th fret. a piece of paper should fit between string and fret.

.004"-.006" for slim taper necks, and as close to DEAD STRAIGHT as possible for fatter necks.Adjust to that, and done...

 

[Will V.]

Bro, you can use the Low 'E' string to set the neck relief...You do not necessarily need Notched Straightedges & Feeler Gauges (what I usually use for a 1st time set-up)). Fret the 1st and last frets (use a capo) and check the string height at the 9th fret. a piece of paper should fit between string and fret.

.004"-.006" for slim taper necks, and as close to DEAD STRAIGHT as possible for fatter necks.Adjust to that, and done...

Thanks, yes I’m familiar with that process. I just don’t have any gauges to be able to put a number to the amount of relief in a neck. This particular neck came to me with a tiny bit of relief (where I would normally set a neck) and I didn’t have to adjust it. I strung it with Ernie Ball 9.5’s and the action was perfect after I set the height of the Nashville bridge.

I have guitars that cost me many times what this guitar cost (including other SG’s and a 335) and this guitar is quickly becoming my favorite to play.

 

[MR D]

Thanks, yes I’m familiar with that process. I just don’t have any gauges to be able to put a number to the amount of relief in a neck. This particular neck came to me with a tiny bit of relief (where I would normally set a neck) and I didn’t have to adjust it. I strung it with Ernie Ball 9.5’s and the action was perfect after I set the height of the Nashville bridge.

I have guitars that cost me many times what this guitar cost (including other SG’s and a 335) and this guitar is quickly becoming my favorite to play.

COOL COOL COOLIO ! Bro, u kno, I hav that same thang goin on too....more expensive, better lookin (Guitars LIKE:Lester Custom, 335, few SG's, 'Bird, Xplorer) GUITARS ...... BUT BUT BUT when it's time to go and RIP....I grab the 2017 SG Standard ......w/57's.....it's just the ROCKINest, EZ playin-est MONSTER (I should have bought 3 that year !)....its effortless playin ...and I never want to put her down ! its Remarkable, $1299 ALL-IN just over 6 years ago.......Great purchase....and I do plan, and have, put my '17 GIBSON SG Standard, up against early 60's SG....LOL, mine blasts the strings right off of them !!!!

CHEERS WILL !!!

 

[papagayo]

Bro, you can use the Low 'E' string to set the neck relief...You do not necessarily need Notched Straightedges & Feeler Gauges (what I usually use for a 1st time set-up)). Fret the 1st and last frets (use a capo) and check the string height at the 9th fret. a piece of paper should fit between string and fret.

.004"-.006" for slim taper necks, and as close to DEAD STRAIGHT as possible for fatter necks.Adjust to that, and done...

I never have to adjust the neck relief on my SGs, they are perfect using this method. The only difference is that I check fret one to 14 and 14 to 22. And I control neck relief with all the strings.

 

[MR D]

I never have to adjust the neck relief on my SGs, they are perfect using this method. The only difference is that I check fret one to 14 and 14 to 22. And I control neck relief with all the strings.

not sure I understand unless you are referring to 1st Fret string height ?
Relief gets a lil wonky on mine, at times, due to weather..but not alot.......climate control isn't always what it should be around the house sometimes.
I had to buy a notched straightedge for something else a while back so I use it on the relief just to get some use out of it....and feeler gauges, LOL ! the ones I have are ancient from back when I used them on spark plugs on the GM 455 engines I used to beat up.

 

[papagayo]

Neck must be very slight concave on the entire lenght, with this method it' s easier to control fret height and if the neck is twisted.

 

[Les’s Nemisis]

You can use cut ends of strings as gauges. Factory relief is typically .010. A high-e measures that. I like it a bit tighter like many here, but that gives you a reference point. It's actually a whole lot easier to measure with and round string vs. a flat feeler gauge anyway when dealing with a rounded fret and round string.