String breaking issue

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Bob L, Sep 7, 2020.

  1. Bob L

    Bob L Member

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    I had a Crazy Parts vibrola installed on my SG Standard several months ago. I have broken 5 or 6 high E strings since, and all at the same place - the loop around the ball. I am using .010 D'Addario strings. I have checked the vibrola for burrs at the contact points with the ball end of the string and nothing seems amiss. When installing strings, I seat the ball so that the curve of the ball matches the groove in the vibrola.

    Is this a common problem? Should I polish the groove in the comb? Any other suggestions?
     
  2. Biddlin

    Biddlin Well-Known Member

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    Yes. I had this problem with Ernie Ball strings, too. Fender Bullets might be a better choice, although I am now using D'Addario NYXLs and have not had any issues.
     
  3. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    The only loop end problem I have had with Ernie ball is one string where the wind came unravelled and the ball fell out. String resonance and sustain are linked to the way the string is tempered. The briefer the temper, the more resonant the string, but it is also harder and more prone to snapping. A long-tempered string will be bullet-proof but dull.
     
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  4. Huntroll

    Huntroll Active Member

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    Cut the rivets off the ends of your old strings.
    Then thread the troublesome string thru the rivet and install.
    Worked for me.
     
  5. Bob L

    Bob L Member

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    For the time being, I ordered extra .010s so I won't have to change the entire set before they are worn. I noticed that some string manufacturers offer soldered ball ends. I intend to give that a try.
     
  6. chilipeppermaniac

    chilipeppermaniac Well-Known Member

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    Ask D' Addario and Crazy Parts Vibrola people. See what they say.
     
  7. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    I've used .09 D'Addarios with my CP Vibrola for almost ten years but never had any problems. And I use it heavily. Soldering the strings may solve the problem though but take some pics and let's have a look at it.

    On an Epi I used some kind of string savers that I can't remember the name of. Not because I had that problem but because I thought it would be a good idea. They're basically just shrink tubing so I guess one could use that instead. Although when I changed strings I skipped those and never had the problem there either. But yeah, get shrink tubing if you don't have a soldering iron.

    Edit: these https://store.bigbends.com/String-Sleeves_c_17.html

    But like I said, it's just shrink tubing which will cost you a fraction of those...
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2020
  8. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    I like the weasel wording in their ad - "Have been used by players like Jeff Beck and SRV". Clearly means no longer used, and in all probability were tried once and rejected.
     
  9. Von Trapp

    Von Trapp Well-Known Member

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    Hahaha, yes. But to this fellow member at least the idea of them may come in handy on one string.
     
  10. Bob L

    Bob L Member

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    I have shrink tubing. I will give that a try as well.
     
  11. Bad Penguin

    Bad Penguin Well-Known Member

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    It's possible you got a bad batch. I had that happen about 4 years ago with a 10 pack of D'Addario 10-46. Blew thru high E's when I hadn't broke a string in 18 years. AND it was on various guitars. Called them up, had a new box once I sent in a couple of the bad strings to them.
     
  12. donepearce

    donepearce Well-Known Member

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    If the twist round the ball is not done properly, the steel/nickel can work harden at that point and go brittle.
     

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