Intonation

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1966SG

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I am taking my 2005 SG Standard in for a proper set up tomorrow.
I was wondering after that can I expect it to stay intonated for a year or more?
I read elsewhere that some folks put a small drop of lock-tite on the screw to keep it from moving after a proper set up.
Anyone here do that to thier SG's?
 

Kerry Brown

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As long as you use the same gauge strings it should stay pretty close. Once I've set the intonation it usually stays unless I drastically change something else. Occasionally due to weather changes I've had to adjust the truss rod a quarter turn or so. Rarely because of that change I've had to tweak the intonation slightly. Whenever I change strings I check the intonation. Sometimes it will need a few small tweaks but usually not as I almost always use the same brand and gauge.
 
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1966SG

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ok. thanks.
The shop I am taking it to use's S.I.T. strings only.
Hopefully I will like the feel of them.
 

gball

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ok. thanks.
The shop I am taking it to use's S.I.T. strings only.
Hopefully I will like the feel of them.

That's a little strange. They should set it up with whatever strings a player uses, not force them to use what they happen to prefer. Now, maybe you like the SIT strings and that's fine but if you don't when you switch to your regular brand it may need to be set up again, which kind of renders paying for a setup a bit redundant.
 

1966SG

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I think its strange also.
But, its the only shop I can find near me.
 

Bettyboo

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I'm a rank amateur, but changing the intonation on bridge saddles really is incredibly easy - anybody can do it.

I'm really not the person to be explaining, so many great guitar techs on this board, but as a rank amateur that can just about change me own strings, I just clip the tuner to the headstock then play the open string and tune it up. Then play the same string when fretting the 12th and if it's very slightly flat or sharp I might just leave it, if it is clearly flat or sharp then it's just a turn of the bridge saddle screw in or out - really really easy.

No reason at all to add glue because at any later point when you adjust anything then you'll likely wanna check intonation and tweek it.
 

Six String

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When I got my 84 Sp. it was a hair off so I took it to a trusted local shop to have it set. She did an incredible job with it and I had a set of new strings I normally use on it when I took it in. I have not had a problem with it since. I agree with the "no lock tight" statement as well.
 

dbb

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Total b.s.Been doin' it for 38+ years ! A competent, honest tech will set it up with your choice of strings, to your specifications.
;>)/
Yup. Any strings YOU the customer choose.

A good tech may suggest strings, but to use only one brand is a bit suspect to me. SIT is really no better than any other quality string in terms of tuning stability in my experience. They are good strings, but not worth using exclusively.
 

Biddlin

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Want to give it a go, yourself? The only tool required is the trussrod wrench that came with your guitar. An electronic tuner and proper screwdriver help!
Assuming no twisted neck or proud frets and a properly cut nut, with the guitar tuned to playing pitch, begin by setting the saddle height for frets 15-22 so that the strings play buzz free at the lowest possible height. (Lower the saddle until it buzzes, raise until clear.) When all strings are clean, go to the lower frets and neck relief. Play the strings from fret 1 to fret 14, increasing relief (loosening trussrod) to relieve buzz or decreasing relief(tightening trussrod) to lower the string height, so tighten, by fractional turns, until it buzzes and back off until it doesn't. Once you have acceptable relief, i.e. no buzz and easy action, set your intonation. Play a harmonic note at the 12th fret. This is done by lightly touching the open string directly above the 12th fret to get a "chime" tone. If the fretted note is flat when compared to the chimed note, then the saddle must be moved toward the nut until the chimed note and the fretted note match. If the fretted note is sharp when compared to the harmonic note the saddle must be moved away from the nut until the chimed and fretted notes match. An electronic tuner makes all of this easier, obviously.
This is the opposite order of Fender's and others' setup directions. It is based on performance and not measurements, hence, I don't take any. It works because the neck is immobile, in this case, between frets 15 and 22. The trussrod only affects lower frets. By setting the upper end first, you know any buzzes are coming from too little relief. This method works for most guitars, with trussrods.
;>)/
 

83 Blazer

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1966SG, Biddlin's method works a treat. I used it myself last Saturday to address a slight buzz I had on the first fret on my low E string of my 2010 SG Special Faded which I'd previously solved using a small bit of paper in the nut slot! 4 days on buzz is still gone, intonation is still set fine.

For simple problems like a slight buzz and intonation it really is not too hard to remedy. Just take a deep breath and small steps at a time with the truss rod and you'll be fine.

And enjoy the S.I.Ts. To me that always makes me think they have been designed by some leading University.

And I'd probably just leave the glue for sniffing :wow:
 


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