Soldering technique questions

[RVA]

So rather than struggling until I get it right, and as it seems there are some skilled students of the iron here, I was hoping to get some input on questions that keep coming to mind as I fumble inside the cavity of the beast:

1. a. When soldering a multiple wires to one point, say for instance on the back of a pot, do you twist them together or lay them over each other?

Regardless of whether your twist or stack , how many is too many to put together ? I realize this may depend on gauge, but I am pretty sure that my pots look ugly because I tried to put too many together.

b. When soldering multiple wires into a loop/lug of a pot, how important is it for you to thread it through the loop/lug

c. When soldering any wire to a push-pull post, do you thread them? How about multiple wires?

2. How hot is too hot to have the soldering iron.

3. Do you bend a lug of the volume pot toward the back of the pot to ground it, use a wire, or a combination of these 2?

Any additional important info that I did not think of is welcome. Thanks for any help!

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

Might find some useful info here.

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/tonefreaks/25764-video-about-how-solder.html

 

[zisme]

1. a. twist. don't think i've ever done more than 2 or 3 in the same connection point
b. i always thread it through the loop
c. n/a - haven't dealt with a push/pull pot

2. just hot enough to melt the solder seems to work for me. admittedly i use a cheap junky radio shack iron, so it doesn't
get much hotter than that. but you don't want to damage pots as you're soldering to them

3. i bend the lug and solder it to the pot to ground

 

[Sp8ctre]

1. (a) Twist the wires together and then tin them with solder prior to actually soldering to the pot. Also tin the pot where you are going to solder the wires. I'd say three max unless it's really fine wire.

1. (b) I always thread them through. Better connection easier to solder.

2. I run my soldering iron hot so I can get the connection done quick about 800 degrees.

3. I use a piece of wire, but either way should be fine.

 

[syscokid]

I like to prewire the pots, caps, resistors, jacks, and switches, off the guitar. I'll make a makeshift template of cardboard by either tracing the holes from inside the cavity, or by installing the components with no Tips and Knobs and and letting the shafts make and indentation onto the cardboard. On some guitars the switch won't be able to be prewired.
Pay attention to the position of all the lugs and their fiber boards, and make sure they will clear the cavity walls when you install the prewired assembly.
If you twist wires together, it'll be a little more difficult to pull them apart for future disassembly.
As long as the wire is making contact with the lug, that's all that needs to be done. I always prefer to thread thru the loop with the wire contact shaped into a J-hook.
A 15 to 20 watt pencil iron with a tiny flat tip is all you need. If you have a more powerful one, hopefully with a power/temp control, I would definitely set the control to half to 2/3rds. For each soldering point application, always... and I mean always, clean the tip and re-tin the tip. This makes a huge difference in the integrity of the soldering. This also helps minimize the "Big Glob of Cancer" syndrome.
I try not to bend the lugs back anymore, and use a short wire. Personally I think this looks cleaner. You can use the bridge of the wire for other hook ups. It's easier to disassemble. And when the center lug of the pot needs to be grounded to itself, it won't block that little opening on the pot case that gives you access to shoot some cleaner into it.

 

[syscokid]

And as a Public Service Announcement:
Soldering fumes are bad for you...
Don't poke your eye or pick your nose until you wash your hands after soldering...

 

[oldrockfan]

I will just add that soldering is so much easier with a good iron. I used a cheapie hobby store one for about 20 years. I got things done but struggled with it. Then I finally got some advice from a friend to break down and buy an adjustable soldering iron. OH my what a difference it made! I went with a weller adjustable station and I think mine cost about $100. It has a dial that adjusts the temp and came with 3 different changeable tips. The station also has a built in sponge that I can soak and keep the tip nice and clean. Now I solder like a pro!

 

[Relic61]

I will just add that soldering is so much easier with a good iron. I used a cheapie hobby store one for about 20 years. I got things done but struggled with it. Then I finally got some advice from a friend to break down and buy an adjustable soldering iron. OH my what a difference it made! I went with a weller adjustable station and I think mine cost about $100. It has a dial that adjusts the temp and came with 3 different changeable tips. The station also has a built in sponge that I can soak and keep the tip nice and clean. Now I solder like a pro!

That's definitely the smart way to go ORF. I've struggled with lots of cheapo guns that left me frustrated plus they didn't last. If you add em all up over the years I think in the long run your saving money & well as time & aggravation by getting a quality set up.

Yet when you're young that $100 seems so wasteful on a soldering gun doesn't it??

 

[zisme]

the next soldering iron i buy will be a nicer, adjustable one - probably weller. not sure how much life the radio shack iron has left. definitely needs a new tip. it's done its job though. i can't complain considering it only cost about $10

completely rewired my agile 3010se the other night. don't have any more projects on the foreseeable horizon

 

[syscokid]

I will just add that soldering is so much easier with a good iron. I used a cheapie hobby store one for about 20 years. I got things done but struggled with it. Then I finally got some advice from a friend to break down and buy an adjustable soldering iron. OH my what a difference it made! I went with a weller adjustable station and I think mine cost about $100. It has a dial that adjusts the temp and came with 3 different changeable tips. The station also has a built in sponge that I can soak and keep the tip nice and clean. Now I solder like a pro!

These type of cleaning pads work well and prolongs the life of the tip because your not using moisture (and abrupt temperature drop) as a cleaning agent... cheap, too:


This is the Weller I've had for about 10 years. I have replaced the whole pen once. The whole system is about $40 (replacement pen about $20?):


However, if the base or pen craps out again, I'll be buying one of these for about $135:

 

[Relic61]

I was just thinking that I must have 6-7 working soldering guns that I've collected over the years that all work to some degree. Seems & can't resist the yard sale cheapie. "Does it work??'' "OK here's 3 bucks".

But I must confess I'm a borderline hoarder .. 'border-hoarder' but .. not to be confused with the ex who's a 'bore of a whore' or is it a 'whore of a boar' ??.

Well, we did have things in common but as you can see it was mostly semantics.

 

[WavMixer]

I own a Weller WESD51 and I swear by it!

 

[Yes G]

I own a Weller WESD51 and I swear by it!

Those are excellent and I also really like some of the HAKO multi-temp irons available for under a hundred bucks. Very durable and it's important to have the adjustable temp.

 

[dcwave]

Tip- use some sand paper to lightly rough up the pot where you are going to solder. I find it easier to get a good weld.

 

[eS.G.]

I need a Weller....I have a SHITE "Radio SHack" special......P.O.S. Hope they go out of business...er oh wait----nevermind....I need a Weller.

 

[ivan H]

Tip, when buying a soldering station it is advisable to stick with the well established brands like seller or fluke. Buying a cheaper set up might seem attractive until you need replacement tips & find they're not available & nothing else will fit. Cheers

 

[Yes G]

Tip, when buying a soldering station it is advisable to stick with the well established brands like Weller or fluke. Buying a cheaper set up might seem attractive until you need replacement tips & find they're not available & nothing else will fit. Cheers

I agree. fyi... Hakko is a very established brand with tips and accessories readily available worldwide.

 

[lineboat]

I'll throw this out there too; prep work, prep work, prep work! Just like welding, I always want it right, and prepping is a key ingredient. I always sand/clean the spot on the pot where I'm gonna apply solder. Next I add flux paste. I use the same stuff you'd find for sweating copper. Lenox is a good brand. Add a little bit to the pot and the wire. Get a drop of solder on the tip of your iron, place the wires wherever they're gonna go, the just touch the iron to the connection point. It only takes a second. You won't have the excess heat on the pot, won't melt any wires, and it'll look nice.

 

[ScottMarlowe]

and then tin them with solder prior to actually soldering

This is one of the most important steps in soldering that gets missed so much. As lineboat mentioned, it's all about the prepwork.

 

[ScottMarlowe]

I need a Weller....I have a SHITE "Radio SHack" special......P.O.S. Hope they go out of business...er oh wait----nevermind....I need a Weller.

The cheap $40 one on amazon is quite good. Variable temp tip, gets plenty hot enough on 4 or 5 setting to solder on the back of pots easy, drop it down o 2 or 3 for plain wiring. Get a pencil tip to go with the stock chisel tip and you're all set.