Soldering technique questions

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RVA

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I'll throw this out there too;prep work, prep work, prep work! Just like welding, I always want it right, and prepping is a key ingredient. I always sand/clean the spot on the pot where I'm gonna apply solder. Next I add flux paste. I use the same stuff you'd find for sweating copper. Lenox is a good brand. Add a little bit to the pot and the wire. Get a drop of solder on the tip of your iron, place the wires wherever they're gonna go, the just touch the iron to the connection point. It only takes a second. You won't have the excess heat on the pot, won't melt any wires, and it'll look nice.
I have read that you shouldnot use flux for guitar wiring. Do you use it throughout the process?
 

RVA

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Why wouldn't you use flux for this task?
Some excerpts from "out there"

Do not use flux on electronics! It could cause corrosion over time. Use rosin-core solder on electronics parts.

The rosin core acts like flux but is not harmful to the components

"rosin-core" solder incorporates some flux in it's composition, and works fine for most electronic applications. If you feel the need to have more at hand than comes in the solder (Kester44 is my favorite), then just be sure it is clearly labeled as rosin flux.

just make sure it is electronics flux, and not the plumbers versions in paste form!
 

ScottMarlowe

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There are two kinds of flux. Plumbers tend to use acid flux. THAT should never be used on electronics. Most flux is rosin, like in your rosin core solder. THAT is fine to use on electronics and highly recommended. I always use flux. Whether or not you use just rosin core solder or use flux in addition to what's in the solder, you should get an acid brush (they aren't acidic, that's just what they're called), some paper towels, and some 90% alcohol and clean up the job afterwards.
 

thatbastarddon

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I have enjoyed using my weller wtcpt-60 station for the last few years. It's always been more than adequate for the job at hand.

Flux? (Edit:yes, rosin flux)You can use it, but you then have to clean it up thoroughly. PITA.

Solder to use with or without using flux for electronics?
Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 has been my favorite for a long time...reliable, and easy to work with.

I also have used a little Radio Shack special butane iron from time to time...great for portable needs...
 
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oldrockfan

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lots of good tips on this thread. Thanks guys for sharing all the good info! That $40 weller one seems like a no brainer for those wanting a good setup without spending a fortune. The fancier one is nice though and I can say it is very durable... I've had it for probably 10 years or more and used it hundreds of times without a single issue. I've used it to rebuild entire wiring harnesses for muscle cars more than once. The extra heat is handy when you are doing large volume of soldering. On lighter soldering like on our guitars and amps... the smaller low cost weller should be great.
 

oldrockfan

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Oops, I lied. I have a WES50. Same thing without the digital temp display.

I saw that pic and was thinking the same thing... mine doesn't have the digital part either but otherwise looks like the same thing. I will say weller makes good stuff so you can't really go wrong with that cheaper orange one or the baby blue one. The digital temp display on the new version would be handy.
 

syscokid

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Those are all basically OK, but I don't like the look of the orange one. That huge foam grip is designed for fists, not fingers.
That's funny you mentioned that. The first thing I did, before I went to use the iron, was remove that "huge foam grip". Much better... :thumb:
 

ivan H

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There are is a lot of good info here. Things I think most important are keeping the iron tip clean & tinned. The iron cant transfer heat to the components being soldered otherwise. Pre tinning components is a good idea & facilitates a quick solder joint. You want to remove the iron as soon as the solder flows throughout the join so as not to "cook" it. Use a quality rosin cored solder. Better solders are "low spatter" & make for a neater job. Cheers
 
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Bettyboo

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OK, you boring, boring bastards, you have forced me into a new purchase. I was strongly considering a New Iron Day thread, but, founded in British English, I decided against that...

I've two crap Korean cheap soldering irons, the only two I could find, so I have reverted to my engineering days when I used a simple RS gas soldering iron; very simple, easy to hold and control, pretty powerful, gets into small spaces perfectly, and I never blew up anything or destroyed any components back in those days... So, I've ordered up one of these:

F0600234-01.jpg


I'll be using it to put a new wiring harness and a P94r into Betty. Now, should I put that neck 36th anni pup into the bridge to replace the 498T?

I think RS may be branded Portasol in the US.

Oh, and I got some ultra exciting rozin core flux solder; life doesn't get much better... :D
 
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thatbastarddon

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OK, you boring, boring bastards, you have forced me into a new purchase. I was strongly considering a New Iron Day thread, but, founded in British English, I decided against that...

I've two crap Korean cheap soldering irons, the only two I could find, so I have reverted to my engineering days when I used a simple RS gas soldering iron; very simple, easy to hold and control, pretty powerful, gets into small spaces perfectly, and I never blew up anything or destroyed any components back in those days... So, I've ordered up one of these:

F0600234-01.jpg


I'll be using it to put a new wiring harness and a P94r into Betty. Now, should I put that neck 36th anni pup into the bridge to replace the 498T?


Those gas/butane irons can be lifesavers out in the wild. I still have the cheapie one that I picked up in 2000 to replace my original early 90s model that developed a gas leak :( . I've only had a couple of occasions to use them at live gigs, but those on the repair receiving end were thankful that i had it in my go-bag in my vehicle.
 

ivan H

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Butane irons are great. I'd prefer to use one of these than one of the electric pencil type irons without temperature control. The butane ones are efficient, heat up quickly & can be turned down when not in use to save burning the tip. Cheers
 

Dave_Death

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The problem I always have is the soldering iron tip. I try to make sure it is covered with solder when I have finished with it but often it has other gunk on it (I am assuming this is flux) that seems to prevent it getting a good coating of solder. I seem to burn tips out.

On the heat of the iron I usually use a 40W in order to get in and out quick and thus avoid cooking pots
 

thatbastarddon

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The problem I always have is the soldering iron tip. I try to make sure it is covered with solder when I have finished with it but often it has other gunk on it (I am assuming this is flux) that seems to prevent it getting a good coating of solder. I seem to burn tips out.

On the heat of the iron I usually use a 40W in order to get in and out quick and thus avoid cooking pots
Likely to be carbon build up. A trip through a sponge wetted with distilled water, or one of those copper scrubby looking tip cleaners, every now and then will slow that down.
 

Bettyboo

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I seem to burn tips out.

I know it's not very technical, but back in the day, I just used to clean the tip with a soft cloth when the iron was still warm enough for the excess solder and build up to be taken off, but not hot enough for the cloth to melt onto it - literally a 1 second wipe. But, I suspect that I was using the iron a few times a week, so the constant use was helping to keep it in good shape. The less often you use it, the more important it is to clean it well and prepare it after/before use.
 


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