Soldering technique questions

[RVA]

Ok, thank you guys...again. I did some soldering tonight and tinning the soldering tip before each connection was awesome. The solder flowed to my target much more easily!

 

[Bettyboo]

the solder flowed to my target much more easily!

 

[RVA]

My night was not even nearly THAT good!

 

[ScottMarlowe]

I know it's not very technical, but back in the day, I just used to clean the tip with a soft cloth when the iron was still warm enough for the excess solder and build up to be taken off, but not hot enough for the cloth to melt onto it - literally a 1 second wipe. But, I suspect that I was using the iron a few times a week, so the constant use was helping to keep it in good shape. The less often you use it, the more important it is to clean it well and prepare it after/before use.

The best way to clean the tip is to do it EVERY SINGLE TIME YOU USE IT. Solder a part, run tip through sponge, put in holder. Pull iron out, run across sponge, wet tip with solder, solder part(s), clean on spong, place back in holder. Repeat indefinitely. A clean tip is a happy, well working tip.

BTW if there's permanent black gunk on a tip look to see if the plating has worn off. Once the plating wears off the tip will slowly corrode away under use until it has pockets etc. Replace it at that point.

 

[syscokid]

Actual pic of my setup. I find these Tip Tinner and Cleaner cans very practical and useful. Some of them, like this one, comes with an adhesion pad to mount anywhere you like.

 

[donepearce]

The tinner and cleaner is vital - flux with tiny solder beads incorporated - just waht is needed.

 

[smitty_p]

+1 on having a quality soldering station, if you can afford it. I have one of the cheapie Radio Shack soldering irons at home. It gets me by. But, at work, the techs use a nice Weller adjustable station. WAY better.

Not only is the adjustable temperature nice, the quality of the tips is also much better. The tips last much longer and generally seem to do a better job. The tips on my Radio Shack iron seem to erode after awhile, even though I keep it clean and tinned faithfully. I'm guessing Weller uses a better alloy in the tip.

 

[donepearce]

Weller are pretty good. My old iron is a TCP from the 1980s, and it still has some of its original tips. I use series 7 tips (400F). The temperature isn't adjustable other than by changing tips, which use magnetic thermostats.

 

[ivan H]

+1 on the tip cleaner & tinning compound, aka tip refresher or tip conditioner. Note that there are different grades of this to suit the solder you are using, ie leaded or lead free etc. Someone pointed out earlier in this thread about using the stainless steel wool rather than a dampened sponge for tip cleaning, in the interest of tip life & this I also agree with. Cheers

 

[ScottMarlowe]

Talking about Weller soldering irons:

The tips last much longer and generally seem to do a better job. The tips on my Radio Shack iron seem to erode after awhile, even though I keep it clean and tinned faithfully.

Your experience parallels my own. I've used Wellers with tips lasting months or years of daily use etc. Plus the tips on them are very reasonably priced and easy to change. Even the cheapest Weller soldering station (the one I have) at $40 is a big step up from any ratshack soldering iron I've ever used.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

How did all you guys know I was going to be needing lots of this info despite having soldered things around 10-15 times in my life.
Got 8 new pots, a number of caps and such to swap out for my Faded and Classic SG's in the near future. Thanks

 

[donepearce]

There is another balance to find - not sure if it has been mentioned yet. It is really awkward to solder when you need a pair of hands for iron and solder, and a second pair of hands for the two parts you ar trying to join. So try and make the parts mechanically secure to each other - a hooked wire end through a pot lug - before you solder. Two hands then do nicely.

But don't make them too secure. I mean don't put the cap lead through, then bend it back on itself and twist - because one day you will want to take that joint apart. A couple of millimetres of hook is perfect.

 

[jtcnj]

I've been using this for the last 6 months for an entire amp build, first pedal build, pick up swaps,lots of odds and ends, etc.
got tips and a desoldering pump as well. Not having much luck with desoldering braid.

http://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM

I will be getting that tip cleaner mesh wire stuff by the spring time.

 

[smitty_p]

I've been using this for the last 6 months for an entire amp build, first pedal build, pick up swaps,lots of odds and ends, etc.
got tips and a desoldering pump as well. Not having much luck with desoldering braid.

A good desoldering station is great. Years ago at another job I had I used to use a higher-end unit made by Pace.

If maintained well, they can make a really short job of desoldering components.

 

[donepearce]

Pace are great - among the best. But boy, do they cost.

And I've just thought of one more thing I recommend, particularly for guitars. A tube of gel flux. When you are soldering the body of a pot, it is pretty much guaranteed that all the solder's own flux will have evaporated long before the pot is hot. You then have to spend a couple of minutes scrubbing away at the metal with the iron tip trying to get the solder to stick. The long heat application ruins the pot, and the scrubbing ruins the iron tip. But lay some gel flux on the pot, and it will instantly accept the solder and you can make the joint in a couple of seconds.

 

[chilipeppermaniac]

There is another balance to find - not sure if it has been mentioned yet. It is really awkward to solder when you need a pair of hands for iron and solder, and a second pair of hands for the two parts you ar trying to join. So try and make the parts mechanically secure to each other - a hooked wire end through a pot lug - before you solder. Two hands then do nicely.

But don't make them too secure. I mean don't put the cap lead through, then bend it back on itself and twist - because one day you will want to take that joint apart. A couple of millimetres of hook is perfect.

Don, I find 2 hands, ears, gravity, screwdriver, alligator clip, dog, cat, kitchen sink method is almost 99% of the battle of working on electrical things to solder/ de solder. The actual first thing I remember trying to get fixed right by myself was an EQ slider for an Ampeg SVT head I was selling. Having seen how bits are installed on PSB boards at a friend's Effects pedal building business, I knew what I had to do to install the new Slider. However, what I didn't know how to do by myself was to de solder the component and leave holes big enough to put the wires of the EQ back through and solder.

That became quite a juggling act with just myself and my 2 hands and the iron all while tugging on the part and trying not to pull the guts of the amp where I didn't want it. As I vividly remember saying to myself,,,,,,,,, "how much easier it would be if only I had a helper to hold stuff"

 

[ScottMarlowe]

I use a thing called "Helping Hands". They're cheap, so buy a couple. Come in real handy.

 

[RVA]

I use a thing called "Helping Hands". They're cheap, so buy a couple. Come in real handy.

I have one of those, but can you use it in a guitar's control cavity?

 

[donepearce]

The idea of those things is much better than the actuality. In practice, BluTak, masking tape and rubber bands are usually easier.

 

[ScottMarlowe]

I have one of those, but can you use it in a guitar's control cavity?

I have actually. You just have to get creative. I like having the ease of re-arranging things quickly

And yes, donepearce, some are better than others. Also having > 1 is nice because sometimes you need to hold things that are further apart / closer together etc. They're cheap, buy a few.