1974 Original String Gauge

[smitty_p]

I have kind of an odd question.

What gauge string was Gibson installing in the early '70s?

I'm running 10's on my SG now. But, I'm wondering what Gibson actually used from the factory back then.

I was but a small lad at the time!

Thanks

 

[Col Mustard]

the world wonders...

I think Ernie Ball pioneered making extra light strings in the middle to late sixties in
California, and they slowly caught on. I played only acoustic then, but remember that I could choose between heavy, medium and light gauge strings. For acoustic players, 13s were considered 'medium gauge." I used those because I played in bars, rhythm guitar, and I needed presence. I also used 13s because I played hard, and routinely broke strings.

I remember that electric guitar players could choose different gauges too then, but don't remember what was considered light. I'd guess that 10s were available then and probably in wide use. It would be interesting to know what Gibson would have selected as original equipment then. Somebody at GHS might be able to look that up.

 

[Biddlin]

Smitty, I believe they were 10s.
Gibson's official word on current practice:"If you're replacing strings on a new Gibson, most solidbody electrics (Les Pauls, ES-335s, Nighthawks, Flying V's, SG's) come from the factory with light gauge strings, beginning with .009. The Chet Atkins SSTs and hollowbody electrics (ES-175) come with .010s. Most flat tops are strung at the factory with medium gauge, beginning with .013."
Don't know how long that has been the practice and of course specifications are subject to change, without notice.
Biddlin ;>)/

 

[smitty_p]

'Tis a bit of a mystery.

I've found the Vintage Reissue Strings on Gibson's site. There, they are broken down as follows:

Ultra Lights - .009 - .042
Lights - .010 - .046
Medium Lights - .011 - .050

But, this is now. I'm curious if these correlate to any sizes used back in the day. Were strings even sold as 9's or 10's or whatever? Or, were they just given a generic designation, such as "Lights" or "Mediums?"

My reason for asking is that I'm beginning to think I may be better served with my SG by stepping up to 11's. I'd prefer not to do this, as I'll have to go through and re-setup my guitar for the heavier gauge. So, I'm wondering what strings my guitar had when it left the factory; consequently, what Gibson considered to be the ideal strings for my guitar. Then again, these were the Norlin years and they may have just shoved it out the door with little consideration for the "ideal."

 

[shreddy bender]

When I had my '74 standard I went for over a year trying to find the right strings for it. I finally tried Dean Markley 11-52's and found the sweet tone and tuning stability i was looking for. It was still like butter to play and to this day I still use that gauge on all my guitars.
My friend lived in Toronto and found a good deal on a whole box of them for me back in 1989 or 90. I asked "why so cheap?". He said "Buddy at the shop wasn't able to sell them! The store guy said they were 'SG' strings and no one plays those anymore!".
It might be worth a try I use the 20 wound G string but the pack comes with an 18 plain as well.
When I bought my 2003 Faded I switched up from the factory 10's to the 11's after my first string change and didn't have to do much adjustment.

 

[Biddlin]

" My reason for asking is that I'm beginning to think I may be better served with my SG by stepping up to 11's."
How so ?
BTW, I used D'Addario strings in 1974 and they were most certainly gauged in both English and metric measurement. I used 009s on my strat, which ticked Don Bennett, my rhythm guy, off, because he couldn't steal 'em to use on his ES-125.(Way too light)
Biddlin ;>)/

 

[smitty_p]

How so ?

Mostly from the standpoint of experimentation, I guess. Plus, I keep reading that some folks insist a Bigsby works better with 11s than 10s. This makes sense to me.

I mean, it does pretty well with 10s now. But, I'm not beyond looking for other means of improvement. I've played 11s before, so I know what they feel like.

In addition to any adjustments for intonation and neck relief, I may have to widen my nut slots. When I made this nut, I used nut files for 10s. However, when I file a slot, I only file it deep enough for half the string diameter (at least for the wound strings). I keep the slots as shallow as possible to minimize friction on the string. So, maybe I'll be alright.

 

[smitty_p]

Well, I haven't found out, yet, what strings my guitar originally had, but I'll tell you what it has now!

I just switched up to 11s. The set I'm using is Ernie Ball Power Slinky 11s (part no. 2220). This set has .011, .014, .018, .028, .038, and .048 gauge strings.

I did a very small amount of nut work. I had previously cut my nut with the slots a little high and had intended to lower the slots, so I took this opportunity to bring them down. So, in addition to working the slots a little lower, by using a little bit of sideways pressure with my nut files in the slots I was able to get them just right.

So, far I like these strings. They do give a little beefier tone, but aren't that hard to play. The extra length of string from the bridge to the anchor point of the Bigsby, and the fact that the Bigsby spring offers a little bit of "give" lessens the effect of the extra stiffness from the heavier gauge. Of course, I've been playing acoustic every night this week, so this feels like I'm going to 8s!

I don't use pencil lead in my nut slots. Instead, I have a delrin nut, which is already slippery, and I make a little slurry of powdered graphite and Teflon oil and dab that in the slots. Plus, I apply the Teflon oil to all the moving parts of the Bigsby and roller bridge.

The effect is nice. The extra tension from the 11s seems to pull the Bigbsy spring more to the point where it exerts the most pressure. After all the obligatory string stretching and letting the strings "settle in," it seems to hold its tuning stability pretty well.

 

[Biddlin]

Biddlin ;>)/