ABR1 or Nashville Bridge?

[Gary Gretsch]

I have a guitar that I am working on and I need some opinions. What do you think is better the ABR1 or Nashville? The only thing I am thinking is that the Nashville gives more room for intonation. Either bridge will be going into a bushing so that is not a problem
Thanks.

 

[plankton]

I like the Nashville, as you said it is a bit wider but it also doesn't have the retaining wire which can create buzzing sometimes.

 

[rtcook]

Personal preference in my opinion. ABR1 is what I like for the vintage look. Nashville does give more intonation adjustment, but if the bridge studs are drilled where they should be it doesn't matter. I don't like the threaded body inserts either. Too much slop in the threads. YMMV.

 

[Go Nigel Go]

I like the Nashville bridge as well, but if the pockets are positioned so the intonation will be close enough for the reduced travel on the ABR1, either one will work just fine. If you are unsure about the position (but don't want to risk having to change the bushing positions) the Nashville will be good insurance to make sure you can get what you need. When in doubt I would do the Nashville and call it done so I could just get it playing without any hassels.

 

[Gary Gretsch]

I like the Nashville bridge as well, but if the pockets are positioned so the intonation will be close enough for the reduced travel on the ABR1, either one will work just fine. If you are unsure about the position (but don't want to risk having to change the bushing positions) the Nashville will be good insurance to make sure you can get what you need. When in doubt I would do the Nashville and call it done so I could just get it playing without any hassels.

What I was thinking. Seeing how the guitar was without a bridge when I bought it.

 

[RGX_Custom]

Get yourself an ABR-1 bridge because it has way better tone and it looks more badass. And you'll also have more friends and make more money.

 

[TDA1966]

I put a kluson USA machined steel Nashville on my '17 standard ... the clarity seemed to jump right out . The Plain G string seemed to really become stronger sounding. Maybe I'm imagining it but it seems like night and day compared to the aluminum or the zinc ones. I've tried machined brass Nashvilles before but they seemed to bring out very irritating overtones in the higher registers on the SG's.

 

[Les’s Nemisis]

Nashville wins for adjustment range, a lack of rattles, no annoying retainer wire, and the saddles don't pop up and down when you're trying to intonate it.

 

[Decadent Dan]

I have a Gibson chrome aluminum Nashville bridge with studs, no inserts and tailpiece with studs, no inserts. Pulled from a new ‘20 SG Standard. I got it from Stratosphere for a project that didn’t happen. The intonation is still at factory settings. Hit me up if you’re interested.

 

[An Abiding Dude]

I've always been fuzzy about the difference. Is it only the bridge stud mounting system but the bridge mechanism (saddles, intonation adjustment screws, etc.) itself is similar? I know there's different material used for saddles (nylon, metal, etc.) but that doesn't affect the identification of the bridge system itself, right? On Faber's website they describe it so:

"Basically, without first discussing the bridge itself, the first clue is the type of height adjustment hardware you have. ABR-1 systems have threads along the entire length of the bridge post, with a separate thumbwheel which rides up and down the threads to adjust the bridge height. The bridge stud is mounted directly into the wood. Nashville systems have a combination one piece post and thumbwheel which screws into a threaded metal insert in the body. The combo bridge post/thumbwheel is threaded on the bottom only, and the bridge height adjustment is determined by how far the post/thumbwheel is screwed into the insert. There are no threads above the thumbwheel."

Is that all there is to it or is there more difference(s) not mentioned in this description? The Nashville system I would imagine has far more stability with the bushings sunk into the body while the ABR-1, with the screws directly sunk into the wood of the guitar, would seem to give the guitar a better resonance due to the transmission of vibration from the strings through the bridge and screw mounts into the body of the guitar. Am I on the right track here?

 

[Colnago]

If everyone finds the slop between the bushing and the threads annoying, take some copper shielding tape and give the threads almost one full wrap. Just a bit more than 3/4 of a wrap, but less than a full wrap.
Thread that into the bushing now. No more play!! Do the same with the tailpiece. Makes for a much more solid interface.
If you don’t use copper, (with the tailpiece especially) you’ll lose the ground connection with the strings.
I don’t know if the tailpiece and bridge being more solid adds any sonic quality, but it sure feels nice knowing it’s a solid interface now.

 

[pancake81]

I have 3 SG’s, two with an ABR (AY custom shop and a 61 reissue) and one with the Nashville. A two pick up custom.

Tonally I don’t notice a difference, so it depends if you want (need) the added benefit of the additional intonation range. I prefer the ABR on my 61 and AY as that makes those guitars correct. And no preference on the custom.

Appearance wise I tend to lean towards the ABR. Put it this way, if I was building a made to measure, I would go for the proper ABR, but a Nashville doesn’t deter me if I was buying used or off the floor. I would not do the ABR conversion. I think at that point it’s just kind of silly. But no offence to those that have done it

I think there are much bigger things to consider on a guitar purchase than just the bridge. Like does the guitar mesh with you, neck profile, overall fit and finish, etc. don’t buy a guitar you like less than another just because it has an ABR

 

[Les’s Nemisis]

Yes: Like @Colnago says, if you don't like the play then a little tape will fix it. I prefer the aluminum tape for this. But copper works too.

My opinion (with no engineering done to get scientific data) is that when the threads on the posts get pushed down and pulled forward by string tension that any slop in this interface is eliminated. So it's not really an issue. But it still doesn't hurt and some studs / bushings have more slop than others.

Personally, I don't know why GIbson and others haven't moved to a finer thread and more precision fit than what we've had since way back when. It really is a coarse interface considering the precision we (they) apply in building a guitar. Plek machines honing to .0005 accuracy... and a thread on those posts that is also used on a muffler clamp.

 

[Les’s Nemisis]

I've always been fuzzy about the difference. Is it only the bridge stud mounting system but the bridge mechanism (saddles, intonation adjustment screws, etc.) itself is similar? I know there's different material used for saddles (nylon, metal, etc.) but that doesn't affect the identification of the bridge system itself, right? On Faber's website they describe it so:

"Basically, without first discussing the bridge itself, the first clue is the type of height adjustment hardware you have. ABR-1 systems have threads along the entire length of the bridge post, with a separate thumbwheel which rides up and down the threads to adjust the bridge height. The bridge stud is mounted directly into the wood. Nashville systems have a combination one piece post and thumbwheel which screws into a threaded metal insert in the body. The combo bridge post/thumbwheel is threaded on the bottom only, and the bridge height adjustment is determined by how far the post/thumbwheel is screwed into the insert. There are no threads above the thumbwheel."

Is that all there is to it or is there more difference(s) not mentioned in this description? The Nashville system I would imagine has far more stability with the bushings sunk into the body while the ABR-1, with the screws directly sunk into the wood of the guitar, would seem to give the guitar a better resonance due to the transmission of vibration from the strings through the bridge and screw mounts into the body of the guitar. Am I on the right track here?

I've seen a lot of folks claims that there's a resonance difference in the ABR-1 with direct posts vs. the bushing and post Nashville arrangements.

I really have my doubts that it matters. I have a very resonate LP with a Nashville.

But I have done a back to back test with a wraparound lightning bolt vs. a compensatable wraparound and I was shocked that the lightning bolt was a huge improvement in guitar resonation. Controlled test; no other variables; more detail available if anyone cares. So much of a difference that I'm keeping a guitar I was going to sell due to its dullness.

Apparently the compensatable wraparound took something from it. Either through the added mass or the sound having to go through the assorted bridge bits to get to the posts and then the body.

So, does the ABR-1 with direct posts make a difference? I can't say because I've never done a conversion back-to-back. But it does seem like subtle changes can have unexpected effects in the bridge area and resonation.

FWIW.

 

[nasticanasta]

I have a guitar that I am working on and I need some opinions. What do you think is better the ABR1 or Nashville? The only thing I am thinking is that the Nashville gives more room for intonation. Either bridge will be going into a bushing so that is not a problem
Thanks.

I happen to like the classic old ABR with the retainer wire, I’ve actually never had a Nashville, I’ve never had any buzz Ng problems

 

[nasticanasta]

Get yourself an ABR-1 bridge because it has way better tone and it looks more badass. And you'll also have more friends and make more money.

Nice special with ebony fretboard, I got a 97 just like this nitro, you’re right the old ABRa are better looking, never had problem tuning

 

[Col Mustard]

Personally I don't get it about the ABR-1.
IMHO the ABR-1 is an obsolete design that was
superseded by the"Harmonica bridge" about 50 years ago. The Nashville bridge then superseded the "Harmonica" bridge a bit later. The Nashville bridge has been in service for more than forty years with no problems that weren't imaginary.
>The changes to the bridge design were made in response to pleas from guitarists for more intonation travel. The ABR-1 design is from the days when there was only one string gauge: HEAVY... Today it's a relic.
Some people like relics and will pay extra for them.
Not me.
>Some people think that 1950s guitars are better than what we have today. I don't believe that either. *shrugs
...I know this goes against gospel, but I've never been
one for orthodoxy. I sold all my "vintage" guitars (when I needed money for medical reasons) and I'm very happy with my 21st century instruments.
Some people think the ABR-1 has a retro "look"... but
how many people in the audience will see it, or know what it is, or even care about antique gear?
>So I'm for proper intonation, and I'm for a solid set of threads to screw the bridge into. The best of the Nashville bridges are made by TonePros IMHO. They are expensive, but they render great coupling and excellent intonation.

There it is.

 

[papagayo]

I prefere the Gibson ABR-1 bridge, better design and more vibrations, the Original Gibson Bridge .

 

[MetroGMP45Head]

ABR 1 is my favorite.

Specifically the complete Pigtail bridge assembly. With Steel Studs, and wireless. All parts fit together like a glove. Aint no rattle with this baby.

 

[papagayo]

Gibson ABR-1, of course, yes !